 Food & Spirits: With the passing of the legendary L'Orangerie, there is room for an L.A.-based chef francoise extraordinaire. Since 2002 that void is being filled by the young and striking Chef David Myers. His gastronimque genius is neatly tucked inside a room on La Cienega. In short, waiting another moment before experiencing a meal at Sona would truly be remiss.
A superior "modern French and seasonally spontaneous" experience, the fragrant Earl Grey scented buns and Riedel flute of Audoin de Dampierre Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru amazes even before the arrival of the amuse bouche. The artful streaks of passing cars through the frosted sidewalk windows are easily forgotten when presented with Avocado Stuffed Hamachi in a Celery Root Puree Black Truffle Vinaigrette and a stunning 2006 Hogl Riesling "Federspiel" from Wachau, Austria. Though noted that even the cherry blossoms in the floral centerpiece are a perfect seasonal touch, one can only imagine that the room was purposely created in simplistic purity so as to not detract from diverting ones sense of smell and taste.
Sona is a masterpiece of fresh and passionate talent. Between Myers modern, yet easy-to-understand flavor pairings of forest dweller-Venison with Black Truffles, his sommelier Mark Mendoza, deftly pairs every course with fantastic selections, this one with a traditional Rioja, a 2000 Bodegas Marques de Murrieta "Castillo Ygay" Gran Riserva Especial. Though the restaurant could be interpreted as formal, the loungey Thievery Corporation tunes that waft through the air don't allow that thought to solidify. The service is impeccable and polite, yet when one learns that Chef Myers surfs the waters of Malibu in his spare time and Mendoza tells the funny story of how a multi-ton solid piece of granite wine bar was delivered into the space, one can't help but smile with a kinship knowing.
Dessert is a must during a visit to Sona. The juxtaposition of flavors continues with pastry chef Ramon Perez's creations; consider the Carrot Orange Ravioli, or the Lemon Olive Oil Spongecake with Vanilla Yogurt Soup and Turmeric Ice Cream. And what would a French restaurant be without a cheese plate? Bites of perfectly Royal camembert cheese with a rose petal preserve and bleu cheese with fresh honeycomb are the crowning touch with a sip of Seth Westerly's 2003 Viognier "Apres" from our local Santa Ynez Valley. If you are lucky, you may even steal a taste of Mendoza's own Santa Maria Syrah.
All in all, simply wow.
Alyson Dutch
JustLuxe Contributor |
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