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Home > FineLiving > Food & Spirits > Summer Time and the BBQ is Easy
 

Summer Time and the BBQ is Easy


The classic barbecued ribs are the spareribs -- the lower section of rib cage remaining after the pork chop has been removed. If the chine bone and the brisket bones are removed from the bottom of the rib rack, then the rib section is called St. Louis style.

The choicest spareribs weigh in at less than three pounds -- called \"three and under\" by those who get serious about such things. Larger ribs will be tougher and may require more magic to render them tender. Personally, I avoid the small imported \"Danish\" ribs because of lack of taste and texture When it comes to barbecued ribs, beginners may try the faddish, more forgiving loin back; those wanting more meat may cook the country style, but those connoisseurs whose palates can appreciate the taste and texture will insist on the incomparable sparerib-- the prize that inspired the rib revolution.

Selection Choose sparerib sections weighing 3 pounds or less, called "3 and under" in the trade, that are bright pink, moist and not overly laden with fat. Look for the St. Louis cut because the brisket bone and chine are mostly waste. Expect to pay a little more for that reason. If the St. Louis Style is not available, you can cut or have the butcher cut the chine and brisket bones. Cook them for sampling. Keep the ribs chilled to around 40 degrees until you are ready to prepare them. Buy the maximum that your grill can handle because you can always freeze any leftovers - an illusion, in most cases - and ten racks of ribs cook as quickly as one. Reconstituted barbecue is probably better than hot off the grill.

Preparation Most skilled barbecuers agree on the necessity of removing the thick inner lining of the rib section. Some even advocate removing the thin membrane covering each rib. I find that unnecessary and a little much. Removing the inner membrane is really very simple. First step is to insert, somewhere toward the center of the rack, a rather blunt ended instrument - a Phillips screw driver, an oyster knife, even a wooden dowel - beneath the membrane and raise it slightly. Next step is, using a paper towel or cloth for friction, grasp the raised membrane and pull. It should come off in one piece. If you have catfish skinning pliers, they work wonders.

Trim off any extraneous fat and slivers of meat, then prepare to season. Here is where things get spicy. A serious controversy rages among the various purveyors of pork as well as among some adamant amateurs about the proper seasoning of ribs. Some swear by the dry rub others by the wet basting sauce. Personally, I do both, have no problems with either and many times do both on the same rack of ribs. Barbecue is always spiced by controversy as well as herbs and spices, but those who learn to use an appropriate basting sauce will never again doubt its value.

If you use a rub and a basting sauce on the same rack of ribs, make certain that they use the same set of seasonings and do not contradict each other. Apply the rub - rather heavily from 5 minutes to 10 minutes before putting the ribs on the grill. Sprinkle it on and rub it in. If basting, apply one coat of the basting sauce and let it dry, then apply another generous coat just before putting the meat on the grill.

Preparing the Grill Barbecuing spareribs will require 5-8 hours of consistent heat from wood or charcoal coals at around 200-215 degrees. Therefore, a generous bed of coals should be built in the grill. Depending upon the capacity of the grill/fire box, the coals will need to be replenished periodically - a period which only you and your grill know. Maybe at this point, only the grill knows. But that is something you must learn for each grill. So begin by keeping a regular diary that records not only dates, times and temperatures, but also the ambient temperature, humidity and wind conditions. Record your results, as well. This will be very important to you in learning to perfect your ribs.

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POSTED: Friday Oct. 22nd, 2004

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