Couture Fashion: Black ruled the runway this fall, with designers using it to outfit models monochromatically as well as in combination with subtle touches of color, like deep eggplant and ecru. Minimalism is the key for fall, with designers keeping details to a minimum and eschewing the decadent detailing of recent seasons.
Many of Versace's pieces were understated in color and followed fall's monochromatic trend. This cocktail dress gets its pop from the shoes and its simplistic draping style rather than the typical Versace bling and wild prints the house is often associated with.
Burberry's Christopher Bailey has a tough job appealing to all the fans that are attracted to the label, but he managed to include something for everyone.
"I've been looking at L.S. Lowry," Bailey explained, citing the Northern English painter of industrial landscapes and "matchstick" people. "He painted all these ladies walking around in funny hats and coats."
Indeed each model walked the runway in a Busby-like wool beanie, to top off the play on proportion that was Bailey's focus: extra long pants with a short-sleeved shift. And a touch of glam for everything, like the heavily sequined front of this simple silhouette.
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Calvin's Klein signature simplicity came through in Francisco Costa's almost severe precision. Utilizing the Season's deepest colors including a nearly black navy coat, the collection consisted mainly of black. This plunging maxi cocktail dress would be too simple if it weren't for the metallic sheen of the fabric that contrasts brilliantly with the minimalist design of the dress.
Karl Lagerfield kept up the timelessness of Chanel showcasing classic tweed with giant quilted bags and pearls. But he kept the house favorites updated, like in this party dress with just the right fringe, in keeping with the updated retread of Coco Chanel's "poverty de luxe."
Well known luxury line once again turned to an unusual fabric choice for winter: chiffon. Feminine details were also contrasted with cutouts and studs, whether on leggings or coats and even shoes. Overall, the collection was geared toward the young, showcasing unusual fabric choices, but using one color, namely black to tie them together, although white with deep fall colors was a commonly used print.
Designer Derek Lam cited Isak Dinesen and her lifelong struggle to resolve the contradictions between her family's bourgeois values and her own, more adventurous, spirit as his inspiration for his collection.
It's a tall order, but Lam made it work, using more color in his collection than some of the other collections. He combined simple pieces with strong details, to reflect the dualism of his inspiration.
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Escada used a lot of deep red to pop off its creamy white clothes for a fun and sporty look in its fall collection. The heavy knitwear gives a grown up feel to fun retro-inspired clothes. Ribbons as neckties were omnipresent throughout the collection, as was the absence of skin, whether legs were covered by stunning over-the-knee boots or tights.
Alessandra Facchinetti had a big task designing this collection. But she took it seriously and had some of the most detailed and updated Valentino looks to date. "I think the things Valentino created were timeless," she said. "I wanted to take something from the cleanliness of the sixties structure, but at the same time make things soft and light. But there is nothing too obvious."
She used the sixties structure but shied away from too much Valentino red, using it as accents on the shades of beige that often appeared in the collection and only a few gowns. Overall, she made Valentino as relevant and timeless as ever, keeping the signature looks, like this stunning suit and adding delicate details like flowers and beads, but not enough to overwhelm.
For LxM Carly Zinderman