In the midst of Men’s Fashion Week, when most designers are looking back to the ‘60s, ‘70s or even collegiate days for inspiration, Jil Sander’s creative director, Rodolfo Paglialunga, has his finger firmly on the pulse of today. The house is known for its streamlined and modem take on minimalism, and this collection is no different. For his men’s debut, Paglialunga focused on luxurious basics—leather, fur and cashmere were used heavily in outerwear, while everyday pieces held together the remainder of the collection.
Paglialunga sent utilitarian work wear down the runway, finished in a clean, uncluttered silhouette. Shapes were simple and unfussy. Most pieces were plain and unassuming with only tailoring, fabric and accessories used to elevate a look. For the most part it was dry and expected—the same recycled styles with small tweaks here and there to update a piece over the years—but that’s exactly what fans of Sander are expecting. It’s what they want to see and what they want to wear. Elevated basics that they can either make their own or wear alone in all their minimalist glory.
Rather than focusing on the latest trends and designs, Paglialunga stuck to Sander’s well known aesthetic and in doing so was able to create a collection that any man, fashion lover or not, could conceivably wear. It’s understated luxury. It stays on-trend with belted overcoats, looser fits and just a touch of sportswear, but remains a wardrobe necessity with dark winter shades, subtle prints and fabrics that won’t drop out of the spotlight in a few years. It was a great collection for Paglialunga’s first foray into menswear.
