January 29, 2013
[Photograph: Eric Wolfinger]
As Charles Phan explains in his cookbook, Vietnamese Home Cooking, versions of green papaya salad abound across Southeast Asia. This ubiquity is not surprising given its presence on most Thai and Vietnamese restaurant menus throughout the States; however these often slapdash versions don't hold a candle to the hand-sliced, just tossed salad made at home.
Phan's version is relatively simple; crisp green papaya slivers mingle with pickled carrots, fried tofu, cucumbers, and celery. A dressing of potent fish sauce, vine
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