March 20, 2013
Gone are the dizzying Tumblr-inspired prints. Gone are the piercing hues and the mega-collages. Fall 2013 presents a change of heart ? or just a change of mood ? from Jack and Lazaro. It was a gorgeously presented, if a bit subdued collection from Proenza Schouler. The first look, strictly black and white, made the proclamation: this was to be their take on minimalism. Cropped and cocooned, this is a statement coat in more ways than one (I?m not crazy about the giant version, while the shorter variation is far more wearable). Softened silhouettes and a simple kind of elegance is a refreshing turn for the pair ? and a smart throwback against clown-like street couture.
But it?s not like they abandoned texture and intricacy completely: bold neutrals gaves way to scaled-down Dalmation spots and curvy, squiggle effects; expertly folded origami effects and obi-inspired peplums; and ridiculously, hypnotizing embroidery work. Plus, a few touches of muted?pastel color (think delicious mint and sweetened peach).
The accessories went a similar direction: goodbye to oodles of studs and hardware! The bags project a simplicity that?s not unlike those from CÚline and The Row. The sleek-ified designs (nothing too showy here) are ideal for showcasing luxe ostrich skins and curly lamb. The standouts are naturally just a tad flashier: doodle patterns in juxtaposing light versus negative. It might be the shoes that I found most surprising ? not the shoes themselves, per se, but my reaction to them. Smart and dare I say, sensible, if anyone is going to get me in a single sole 2″ heel, it's these two. And that, Proenza Schouler, is a feat in itself!
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