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Asparagus Restraint

May 17, 2013

I always figure if Nature wanted us to eat asparagus with anything but excessive richness, She wouldn't have designed the tips to catch every bit of hollandaise/butter/sesame mayonnaise etc. But there are some nights when gilding the lily* even makes this Mrs. Sprat hesitate, and I'm someone who could eat hollandaise on foie gras. If our dinnertime protein is turkey Milanese, or trout topped with bacon, capers and sage, extra fat just makes me conjure Mr. Creosote. So I'm trying other ways to get the essential richness without overkill. Braising has become my go-to technique over both boiling (too slow) and steaming (too dull) and roasting or grilling (too soon in the season). Last night I tried adding a dash of hot sesame oil and a big splash of tamari to the water in the skillet and the spears took on good Asian flavor without tasting greasy. I'm assuming Parmesan brodo will do the same. *I don't think I knew this, but asparagus actually is a member of the lily family. Also, according to Waverley Root, an aphrodisiac. Check out those tips. . . Photo at Gajeski Farms stand at the NYC Greenmarket

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