Best City Guides

River Dolphins

Irrawaddy river dolphins, once in danger of extinction, are now saving the rural north-eastern town of Kratie. For years the dolphins were killed in now illegal fishing practices and hunted by the Khmer Rouge, but their appeal to tourists is bringing the welcome foreign dollars to the region. Kratie is accustomed to budget travellers, with a choice of cheap guesthouses. All of these offer motorbike drivers for the scenic 9 mile (15km) drive to the dolphins' river home. From the river shore, tourists can rent small boats to get closer. While the oarsmen retain a healthy distance from the surfacing animals, viewers can get near enough to see a similarity between Khmer and dolphin smiles.