 James Rajotte/New York Times Although chefs do everything in their power, be it theatrics, experimental recipes or utilizing some other culinary gimmick, their personal choice of restaurants provide a real look at what great food should be: good recipes made from fresh ingredients. In Madrid, there are a number of restaurants that chefs head to when looking for a night out on the town and the locations show us just how simple a great meal can be.
NEAR the start of each year, prominent chefs and culinary journalists from around the globe descend on Spain for Madrid Fusión, a conference devoted to avant-garde cuisine. While many of them will use their time in Madrid to visit its temples of modernist cooking — the high wire fusion of Diverxo, the rococo excess of Ramón Freixa, the extravagant elegance of Sergi Arola — some will inevitably crave something simpler, more traditional.
It is then that they will turn to their Spanish friends in the food world for suggestions. With the reluctance of someone revealing a secret, those friends will respond, more often than not, with the name of an unfancy tavern most tourists never visit: Asturianos.
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