Once providing inn-style family accommodations, following a major renovation last year, Vitória Stone has turned into a chic, four-star hotel just outside the historic walls of the central Portuguese town of Évora. Its low-ceilinged lobby is characterized by concrete pillars, which look as if they've just been poured. Large, glazed wine amphorae stand around the floors and black and white photographs of archaeological cromlechs on the walls enhance the theme of ancient history.
Upstairs, corridors leading to the 48 rooms exude a sense of surrealism, an effect created by a glass ceiling and dark walls along the narrow space with a large design made from cork decorating every door. While not overly spacious, bedrooms are sufficient in size. Ours, in muted tones of gray and black contrasted by gleaming chrome light stands, featured a small balcony with views over the ochre-colored slate roofs of the town. Highlighting the owners' enthusiasm for recycled materials, planks of wood newly varnished, have been transformed into a headboard, adding a surprising touch of contemporary-chic.
Breakfast is served on the 4th floor, either alfresco or indoors near large windows overlooking the old town. The dining venue’s furnishings are eclectic with an interesting combination of metal and lacquered wood surfaces and mirrors, metal sheets, rust-colored pottery, ornaments made from cork and an impressive collection of more than 70 bright-blue plates hanging from the walls.
On the 5th floor, is an open, rooftop terrace bar and a large sunbathing area with chaise lounges beside an infinity pool. It is joined by a sauna and gym with two running machines and two exercise bicycles. The Almendra Spa is also located here, offering facials and treatments such as the unique Fado Music massage. Using Portuguese aromatic oils, the therapist coordinates her movements with the soft rhythms of the music.
Guests can enjoy dinner at 5 Amêndoas (Five Almonds) restaurant, whose numerical title symbolizes health, longevity, fertility, prosperity and happiness. Our evening began with a tableside-prepared gin cocktail that included crushed juniper pellets, delicately-sliced grapes and Fever-Tree tonic. Its clear when you dine here that Chef Narciso Peraltinha takes pride in reviving rich Portuguese dishes and presenting them in a contemporary manner. His traditional Alentejo dogfish soup was thick, creamy and was spiced with lemon juice and coriander.
We opted for the traditional Alentejo migas and Mertolenga DOP beef stuffed with Serpa cheese for our mains. The former, a collection of pork ribs, sausages and a polenta-like mixture of bread soaked in meat juice and gravy, was a delight for the palate. Our meal ended with an Alianca Velha, a robust Portuguese brandy, and a vintage 20-year-old Insignia port.
Located just outside the walls of the old town, it is an easy stroll from Vitória Stone to the historic center and to the town museum atop both Roman and Islamic ruins. While visiting, be sure to explore the megalithic landscape west of Évora, the most diverse on the Iberian peninsula. Within a small area are ten sites with almost 100 single menhirs, 800 dolmens and some 40 megalithic villages.
For something completely different, rent a car from Auto Europe and drive less than an hour to several vineyards to enjoy wine tastings and special lunches. Well-known viticulturist João Ramos lives near the town of Estremoz. In 1990 he acquired land and built his first winery after renovating an old property.
With 79 acres of vineyard, including Alicante Bouschet and Trincadiera grapes, Ramos produces around 1 million gallons of 12 different wines annually, including Pouca Roupa Rosé, the buttery Vila Santa Reserva and Marquês de Borba Tinto. The vineyard, which exports 60 percent of its production, features large marble buckets where people still crush grapes with their feet in 20,000 French oak barrels. The winery also provides lunch and organizes seasonal hunting parties.
For an authentic Portuguese experience that combines comfort, fine wines and historical perspective away from the more touristy locations of the Algarve, Porto and Lisbon, Évora and the Vitória Stone hotel are excellent choices.
