London Fine Dining: The concept of Indian dining has shifted. Long-gone are the neon signs, the artwork on the walls which lights up and the luminous curries - in their place instead stands an elegant sensory journey.
Engrossed in conversation and possibly looking for the wrong-style of restaurant, my guest and I walk straight past anchor textMoti Mahal in Convent Garden, London.
When we reach the end of the road and retrace our steps, they take us to a venue on the corner of a street with huge windows looking into a bright and spacious eatery.
“This must be the restaurant,” I say with some surprise before we push open the huge glass doors.
It’s a Thursday night and Moti Mahal is busy, but not completely full - the background chitter-chatter from other diners creates a warm atmosphere.
We’re seated by the smiley staff on one of the many tables on the ground floor that are decorated with crisp white tablecloths.
The view outside is of the stunning Art Deco building The Freemasons’ Hall, while inside chandeliers hang from the ceiling in a very ‘clean’ looking room.
We tell our waiter that we’re happy to be left in the hands of the experts and leave our selection of dishes to him.
Our culinary experience begins with more starters than what we can comfortably fit on to the table – I’m sampling the vegetarian tasting menu while my carnivorous friend is trying the meat version.
And the food is simply divine.
My Bhalla Papadi Chaat is a creamy heaven of crisp fried pastry and chickpeas drizzled with yoghurt, tamarind and mint chutney while the Mutter Ki Tikki is a simple yet expertly prepared dish of pan-fried cakes of potatoes stuffed with garden peas.
Across the table, my companion has hardly made a dent in his selection which includes a tasty mix of Titari, tandoor-cooked soft guinea fowl marinated with royal cumin, fresh garlic and smoked red chillies as well as Meen Polichathu - baked seabass with masal crab meat, served in a fragrant banana leaf parcel.
The dishes are washed down with a glass or two of the superb 2006 Gewurztraminer Fleur de Lotus, before our main courses arrive.
We each have about five dishes, and, as delightful as they are, we’re unable to finish.
My Saag Paneer is a delectable mix of masala paneer stir fried with creamed Punjabi greens and the Dal Makhani, which is described simply as a black lentil speciality – it’s cooked slowly for hours on charcoal and tastes both creamy and earthy – perfect for eating with the selection of Indian breads.
My friend is impressed by his Qabali Seviyan – vermicelli and masala chicken supreme tossed with pine nuts and baked with egg custard – while the Chemeen Kozhikodan – stir fried prawns with coconut and curry leaf – goes down a treat.
After a glass of Domaine de la Rouviole’s 2005 Grenach Cuvee Classic and feeling quite full, we decide the best course of action when it comes to whether or not to try a dessert is to opt for everything – with two spoons of course.
Following the exceptional trend of high-quality food, our Kulfi – or four small portions of frozen and sweetened milk – are bursting with flavour and a delightful way to end our meal.
Thanks to the innovativeness of the Head chef Anirudh Arora, Moti Mahal creates a unique dining experience which seamlessly blends a fusion of Indian and Western cuisines.
It’s bold enough to be daring but is careful enough to remain authentic – a progression which continues to be welcomed in London’s creative dining culture.
To book:
Tasting menus range from £45 to £55 per person, excluding drinks. To book a table at Moti Mahal, 45 Great Queen Street, London, WC2B 5AA, call call 020 7240 9329, email reservations@motimahal-uk.com or visit www.motimahal-uk.com.
