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Locanda del Lago Restaurant Offers Inimitable Italian Fare
Posted: Jul. 13th, 2009 | Comments
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Located within Santa Monica's infamous outdoor shopping, dining, and entertainment Mecca known as Third Street Promenade, Locanda del Lago is an experience unto itself. This restaurant duly sets itself apart from the glut of others in the Promenade with its authentic Northern Italian cuisine crafted amid a vehement commitment to fresh, locally farmed ingredients.
Upon opening in 1991, Lago as it is known quickly gained notoriety for its unique focus on authentic cuisine specific to Lake Como in Northern Italy. Accolades have since ensued, including a 2009 Michelin Guide recommendation as well as praise by Gourmet Magazine, Los Angeles Magazine, Zagat, and Wine Spectator.
I recently visited Lago for dinner with my husband and two young children ages 7 and 10 who've already cultivated a love of fine dining. Lago is, in fact, quite family friendly, and a favorite with the celebrity-set. Among the stars who've brought their young children in to dine over the years include Dustin Hoffman, Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell, Bob Saget; Police drummer Stewart Copeland, Kate Capshaw and Rita Wilson.
Upon arrival I immediately noted a blackboard adjacent to the front door, which listed an array of fresh produce used in that evening's menu along with markets and farms the items were purchased from. This and other nightly special information is proudly echoed inside an another, larger blackboard that serves as a main focal point in the dining room. Apparently conveying this information is a nightly ritual assuring diners the restaurant's ingredients, employed in an ever-changing menu, are both fresh and locally grown.
Once inside I was pleasantly overcome by the restaurant's old world ambiance and charming décor that duly evokes the warmth and comfort of an Italian countryside inn or "locanda." Lago's earthy color palette is complimented with greenery, substantial rustic furnishings, vibrant artifacts and artwork depicting life in Bellagio that, all combined, make the space feel quite homey. Because we arrived before sunset, the dining room's many windows - a benefit of the restaurant's plum corner location - streamed in dreamy natural light that further evoked a sense of comfort and relaxation. Outdoor patio seating is also offered for alfresco dining amid some of the best people watching in town. Whether eating indoors or out, Lago compels its patrons to slow down from their usual hectic pace and savor a meal, a libation and the company you're keeping at that moment.
Chef Roberto Maggioni's region-inspired menu, which features authentic creations from Bellagio not often found at Italian restaurants in the U.S., entices diners with seasonal selections for its soups, salads and antipasti, classic and innovative pasta and risotto dishes, designer pizzas, and a range of meat, poultry and fish. The restaurant also has an extensive vegetarian menu, and will happily cater to those with other special dietary needs.
Just as I got settled in with my white peach bellini made with fresh squeezed juice from fruit purchased at Santa Monica's famous Farmer's Market that day, a plate of rich, flavorful parmesan chips arrived to kick start our taste buds into gear. This was quickly followed by a basket of fresh baked bread and a complimentary bowl of lemon-infused trout pate spread, which was extremely light, delicate and salubrious in flavor.
As I did, you'll taste the difference at Lago with your very first course, with options starting at just $7. I ordered for the Melazae alla Parmigana - baked eggplant with fresh mozzarella and a spectacular herbed tomato sauce, while others at the table chose the Gamberi al Prosciutto - prosciutto wrapped tiger shrimp, arugula, shallot an orange wedges, and the Minestrone vegetable soup. Other appetizers and soups not to be overlooked are the Vitello Tonnato - roasted and chilled veal tenderloin, creamy tuna-caper aioli, micro rainbow greens and shaved parmesan; Carpaccio di Bue - beef tenderloin carpaccio with talaggio mouse and micro arugula; and the Vellutana - cramy savoy cabbage soup, fried brussel sprouts and a ciabatta crouton.
The Northern Italian culinary adventure ensued with dinner courses, which range in price from $11-$32 and feature an array of pastas made fresh daily. My Spaghetti allo Scoglio - spaghetti with mixed seafood, including calamari, clams and mussels, in a lightly spicy Arrabbiata sauce - was truly spectacular. At Lago, the seafood and sauce are combined while still cold so that the sauce is thoroughly infused with the fresh ocean flavors when it's brought up to temperature. And, the amount of spice was just right - peppery without being overbearing.
Because dining with my family inevitably turns into, well, family style, I did also partake in the other entrees served up: The presumably simple Pizza Margherita Fresca - pizza with fresh mozzarella, chopped Roma tomato, garlic and basil on a thin, doughy crust - was actually bursting with bright colors, flavor and texture. A great light-side selection. And, the vegetarian dish Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese - substantial wheat pappardelle pasta, roasted garlic, savoy "curly" cabbage, and Yukon potato tossed in a creamy bitto cheese-sage fondue - is incredibly rich and an example of Lake Como comfort food at its best.
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Eric Rosen lives in Los Angeles and writes about food, wine, travel and adventure... usually in some combination of the four. He regularly contributes to Los Angeles...
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