Jean-Georges Vongerichten's affection for the Far East somehow shows up in all of his restaurants by way of carved teak furniture or exotic spices. Now, in teaming up with the Matsushita brothers, who run the well-known chain of Matsugen restaurants in Japan, JGV pioneers "soba cuisine" in TriBeCa. This time, though, the master chef leaves the cooking to the originators, so that every detail in the New York re-creation stays painstakingly true to its Japanese roots. The vast room is intimately compartmentalized, bento box-style.