I arrived well past midnight after traveling across the country and several time zones to this Tennessee destination about which I knew very little. When going to bed the first night, I had no idea what to expect the following morning. Yet, mere days later I was a bona fide devotee of Chattanooga – a place defined by assorted outdoor adventures, distinctive geographic blessings and genuine Southern charm. To learn what I discovered and why I’ll return, keep reading.

My Welcome

Remember the line from the movie, Jerry Maguire: “You had me at hello.” Let’s just say Chattanooga had me at its signage – from a storefront placard humorously promising, “Everything you need and nothing you don’t” and an endearing roadway billboard wishing happy birthday to a 90-year-old resident to a notice of warning, “Please do not touch or feed the animals,” beside the life-sized elephant topiary at The Westin Chattanooga’s entrance. When paired with repeated stories of long-time residents who originally came to the city for a mere four-year stint at UTC (The University of Tennessee at Chattanooga) and in the end stayed, it became undeniable – Chattanooga’s warmth was contagious and its allegiant supporters convincing.

Tip: Talk to locals and ask for recommendations. They love to share their favorite haunts.

Location, Location, Location

In Chattanooga, a river runs through it – the Tennessee River. A landscape punctuated by Lookout Mountain and Signal Mountain, its terrain alone – ranging from prominent peaks and moderate hilltops to vast valleys and sweeping waterways – suggested a wealth of plein air pursuits. 

Its downtown – an eclectic combo of old and new – was clean, safe and walkable. And pictorially, it was impressive. Four main bridges – Market Street Bridge, Olgiati Bridge, Veterans Memorial Bridge and Walnut Street Bridge (a cyclist/pedestrian–only crossing) spanned its iconic river and connected the Riverfront and Northshore to the Tennessee Riverwalk and Bluff View Art District.

A walk from downtown across the Walnut Street Bridge to Northshore’s Frazier Avenue revealed a fun, funky neighborhood that felt like an insider’s secret. Among my discoveries: I Go Tokyo, high-quality Japanese products, admittedly an unexpected find in Tennessee; In-Town Gallery, one of the nation’s longest-running co-operative galleries and Local Only, featuring “everything” Chattanooga. As home of the MoonPie – a graham cracker, marshmallow sandwich covered in chocolate – a stop in Local Only was a “must” for this edible souvenir alone.

Tip: Visit Chalk Alley, located between storefronts along Frazier, and mark the spot and moment with your chalk-written-message (a variety of colors are provided complimentary). A frequent visitor met in the imaginative passageway described it her “happy place.”

During the railroad world’s early 1900s golden age, this city’s celebrated Terminal Station (now listed on the National Register of Historic Places), welcomed thousands of travelers. The iconic depot’s world-renowned hospitality continued with the Chattanooga Choo-Choo entertainment complex – complete with a refurbished train car hotel experience (The Hotel Chalet), distinctive dining (STIR, Blue Orleans Seafood Restaurant and others), a formal rose garden and more.

Like the Complex, origins of Warehouse Row were of the past – it was the city’s Old Stone Fort during the Civil War. Today, this repurposed repository showcased typical and atypical retailers (Hemline was a standout for women’s clothing – smart and casual with a Chattanooga twist).

Tip: Across from the Choo-Choo Terminal is the Chattanooga Whiskey Experimental Distillery. Representing the city’s first distillery in more than a century, take a personal tour/whiskey tasting.

Various Ventures

Lookout Mountain straddled the Tennessee/Georgia border. At an elevation of 2,389 feet, it was no surprise that on a clear day the peak served up views of seven states – Alabama, South Carolina, North Carolina, Kentucky and Virginia, along with Georgia and Tennessee.

For more than 90 years, visitors have enjoyed Rock City Gardens – its massive rock formations, a 140-foot-high waterfall cascading down Lookout Mountain and the Swing-A-Long Bridge which spanned 200 feet. There, the choice from two red trails and one blue allowed exploration at the personal pace of all visitors.

Deep inside Lookout Mountain – after descending 260 feet in a glass elevator and walking along a cavern trail – was the revelation of Ruby Falls, a thundering underground waterfall. This geographic wonder – the nation's tallest and deepest cave waterfall open to the public – was discovered less than 100 years ago (1928).

Offering access to 320 acres of Lookout Mountain was Adventure Sports Innovation, a company that specialized in the latest ways to experience the mountain. My choice, a Swincar, was an electric, all-terrain, four-wheel drive vehicle, complete with articulating arms that allowed transport over all sorts of unexpected topography. So, after climbing into the roll-bar-equipped 'car,' donning a helmet and securing safety belts, off I went – following owner/guide trainer Patrick Molloy up a path that traversed Lookout Mountain.

Tip: Consider purchasing the Chat Pass, which provides admission to several of Chattanooga's attractions for one price. And if available, make reservations.

Culture Cravings

Overlooking and situated high above the Tennessee River, the Bluff View Art District was classic, old school and lovingly run by locals. Self-described as 'dedicated to the visual, horticultural and culinary arts,' its restaurants, cafes, patios and pathways alongside the dramatic bluffs provided a nature-filled urban respite. Though anchored by the Hunter Museum of American Art, the public works of art in the River Gallery Sculpture Garden also warranted a walkabout.

Nearby, the Tennessee Aquarium – easily found by its distinctive architecture, with glass pyramids atop the building – offered two distinct experiences, the River Journey and the Ocean Journey.

Tip: Don't overlook the Hunter's special exhibit; make time for the Aquarium's IMAX film. 

Eat, Drink and Be Merry

Beyond MoonPies, Chattanooga has long been known for catfish, barbecue, hush puppies, pickled everything and fried anything. But it would be a mistake not to acknowledge the city's more cosmopolitan food flair. Easy Bistro, manned by Chef Erik Niel, two-time James Beard nominee for Best Chef, was a repeated recommendation of locals. Alleia showcased handcrafted Italian cuisine using local ingredients. Fresh-from-the-oven bread with garlic cloves baked into the loaf and its legendary lasagna made Tony's Pasta Shop and Trattoria a favorite. Coupled with its on-the-terrace seating, it could have been 'the' favorite. Julie Darling Donuts was the home of the donut sundae (translation: donut and ice cream).

For me, however, the high point was found at a low-profile delicatessen, River Street Deli. Owner Bruce Weiss, a quintessential New Yorker who usually manned the counter, made suggestions (typical, I was told). 'You really want to order that?' he asked of my original selection (though not in the confrontational style of Seinfeld's Soup Nazi). His recommendation, the special of the day, made my day.

Good Night, Sleep Tight

Located in West Village, The Westin Chattanooga's location was pitch-perfect – complete with 260 rooms, a cabana-lined pool, a rooftop bar/restaurant, Paloma Bar de Tapas, and reflective of the Chattanooga vibe, hospitality personified.

Upshot of Lowcountry

Chattanooga conclusion – projecting a small town feel without big city problems – a local's sentiment best explained my overall sense of walk-away warmth: 'We don't want visitors to feel like visitors, we want them to feel like one of us.'

Full Calendar

Lookout Mountain Lowcountry Shrimp Boil, July 25, 2024

3 Sisters Festival of Bluegrass Music, October 4-5, 2024

10th Erlanger Chattanooga Marathon, February 28-March 2, 2025

www.visitchattanooga.com