Set within the elegant surrounds of Richmond Hill Hotel, 144 On The Hill presents its Enchanted Treehouse Tea as a gently escapist take on the classic afternoon tea format. There is, at least in theory, a touch of magic arriving on Richmond Hill this spring, with the hotel inviting guests to step beyond the everyday and into a storybook setting inspired by its verdant surroundings. I visited on a warm spring Sunday afternoon with my two young daughters, who approached the occasion with the kind of focus only children can bring to cake. The setting at Richmond Hill Hotel helps. It is bright, well proportioned, and relaxed.

The food follows a clear structure and, importantly, is well executed. Sandwiches and savouries include egg mayonnaise on spinach bread, smoked salmon with lemon and dill cream in rye, salt beef brioche, cheddar with onion chutney, and a chicken mousse tartlet. These are familiar combinations, but they are balanced and neatly put together. Scones follow, plain and golden raisin, served warm with strawberry preserves and clotted cream, with no unnecessary intervention.

The pâtisserie introduces a little more variation. Fig frangipane with mascarpone, rosemary and rhubarb crème brûlée, lemon meringue tart and dark chocolate marquis sit alongside madeleines with vanilla ganache and a changing selection of macarons. There is enough contrast to sustain interest without overcomplicating things.

Tea, supplied by Birchall, is taken seriously. I had a Lapsang Souchong, the smokiness of which cut cleanly through the sweetness, while my daughters chose oolong; light, softly fragrant, and easy to drink.

The theatrical framing is present but restrained. The “enchanted” element is carried more through presentation than performance, with small whimsical touches such as the decorative stand featuring miniature ladybirds, tiny owls and suspended swings. My daughters were instantly entranced.

Service is excellent throughout: well-paced and attentive without intrusion. On Sunday afternoons, a jazz singer, Amy, accompanied by guitarist, provides a low key, unobtrusive backdrop that suits the room.

Complimentary parking removes a familiar London irritation, and Richmond Park is close enough to make a walk afterwards feel like a natural extension of the afternoon.

We left with two boxes of leftovers, generously packed, which were later taken care of at home by my cake-connoisseur husband, who declared them delectable.

As for the wider reaction, a lady from a neighbouring table swept over as soon as our cake stands arrived to photograph for a friend in America. It is a notably photogenic afternoon tea, but also a genuinely enjoyable one to eat, which is a far
more difficult balance to strike than it looks.

The Enchanted Treehouse Afternoon Tea, £46 per person at 144 On The Hill, Richmond Hill Hotel, 149-150 Richmond Hill, TW10 6RW

To book, visit 144onthehill.co.uk