Alexander Wang is coming into his own with his fourth collection of menswear for Balenciaga. The Men’s Fall/Winter 2015-16 presentation in Paris was inspired by landscape including, rocks, granite, grass and even brutalist architecture. On a backdrop of hilly landscape, broken by concrete steps and industrial walls, models posed in the minimalist garb, which heavily drew from Wang’s own unencumbered aesthetic. But elements of Balenciaga bled through, most obviously in a reinterpretation of Cristóbal’s original cocoon coat.
All manner of detail was pulled from the collection—seams were minimal or nonexistent, hardware was missing and even buttons on shirts were replaced with hidden magnetic closures. Rather than bog down a piece with unnecessary detailing, Wang chose to play with textures and fabrics instead. Pieces that at first glance seemed like everyday fabrics such as PVC, rubber or cotton, were made up instead of textiles like kangaroo leather, cashmere and calfskin. Allowances were made for rare moments of excess with a few pockets and epaulettes that were incorporated into the design.
It was muted luxury, understated elegance that only showed its true colors upon closer inspection. For a minimalist who wishes to draw attention to themselves through means other than their wardrobe, this collection is a dream come true. For both Balenciaga lovers, and Wang fanatics, this collection resides somewhere in no-man’s-land, a grey area between the two. It seems that this is what Wang has decided will be his interpretation of men’s Balenciaga—a blend of both house aesthetic and his own that may push against boundaries, but never sway too far in any one direction.
