Few things match the luxury of wearing a custom-made suit. The fabric flatters, moving fluidly without restraint, a feeling that can make any man more confident and self-assured. But if you’re a first time purchaser or normally buy your suits off the rack, the differences in quality, cost and design can be difficult to navigate. Below we offer an outline and explanation of each type of suit, and suggestions on how to get the most from your tailor. Use these tips and tricks and you’ll avoid expensive mistakes the next time you purchase an investment-quality men’s suit.
Off-the-Rack
Garment factories make mass-produced pieces from standardized patterns to create off-the-rack suits. Some minor alterations such as cuffing the trousers or adjusting waistbands are possible, but depending on an individual’s body type, the suit may or may not fit well. An example of this issue would be a man with an athletic build who needs extra room in the chest and shoulders so as not to restrict his range of motion. In this example, an off-the-rack suit will not offer the comfortable fit he desires.
Made-to-Measure
Made-to-measure suits are produced by altering a standard pattern to a limited set of measurements (usually chest, waist and inseam). They often times offer a much better fit than off-the-rack suits, but because tailors work from industry standard patterns, there are still limitations. They can make generic changes such as shortening or lengthening each pattern, but the resulting fit may not be perfectly proportionate with your body type. An example of this would be tall or short men who require customized patterns to flatter their figure.
Custom-Made / Bespoke
A custom-made suit is just as luxurious as it sounds. Here, the tailor creates an individual pattern for you, taking multiple measurements along the body to ensure a perfect fit. Often times these suits can take weeks or even months to create, so while it is time intensive, this option does offer the most flattering and comfortable fit. A bespoke suit glides over your body and fits like a glove because it is made to your exact measurements and specifications.
But like anything else there are variations in quality among bespoke tailors. Here are a few things to watch out for and three ways to make sure you are getting the best return for your investment:
Insist on Options
If a tailor offers you a limited fabric selection and few styling options, this is your first warning sign of a lower quality suit. Custom tailors offer their clients almost unlimited selections because they work with so many different fabric houses. Whether you want a traditional single or double-breasted suit or you want to add custom styling details like surgeon cuffs or a six-button jacket, a custom tailor is prepared to accommodate your personal requests.
Suit Measurements
Professional clothiers adhere to the "measure twice, cut once" rule of thumb, so expect your tailor to take a complete set of measurements, multiple times. As mentioned earlier, tailors use these measurements to create a personalized pattern that fits your body. If he only takes a few basic measurements such as chest, waist and inseam, this is your second warning sign your suit may not an investment-quality garment.
Suit Fittings
Fitting the suit to your body is just as important as taking precise measurements. If you only have one fitting prior to receiving your finished suit, consider that a third warning and a strike out for your tailor. True bespoke requires a first fitting, where the tailor makes any necessary adjustments to the basted garment. This initial fitting is followed by one or two more to finalize the fit, drape and feel of the garment.
