While the owners may be too modest to call it a fine-dining restaurant, the Noua B.A.R in downtown Bucharest certainly has a fine-dining chef.
And one who is not afraid to take chances.
Chef Alex Petricean, and partner Loredana Cristian, founders of Noua B.A.R., a more informal version of their Noua Bucatarie Romaneasca, have created a pleasant rustic setting where guests enjoy traditional Romanian cuisine with a contemporary twist, with dishes based on a sharing concept. Thus the acronym B.A.R meaning ‘Bucatarie Aproape Româneasca,’ translated as ‘Almost Romanian Cuisine.’
Located on Boulevard Ion Mihalache, a street that holds a special place in my heart having lived there for several years while foreign correspondent for The Times of London, Noua’s cosy terrace is delightfully decorated with potted plants, hanging wicker baskets, simple wooden tables and colorful wall murals by a local artist.
The interior is equally appealing, emanating rustic charm, two floors with large windows facing the boulevard, a polished wooden floor, impressive designer wallpaper by House of VLAdiLA featuring vivid images of Romanian dancers in costume, sturdy traditional wooden tables with embroidered cloth settings. Vintage bottles housing fresh flowers and plants adorn each table. Mood music is Romanian folk with a modern twist.
First off, the innovative cocktails, with homemade syrups, all named after characters in Romanian fairy-tales. Ileana Cosânzeana – a sweet and sour concoction featuring sour cherry liqueur, wild strawberry wine and raspberry liqueur topped with raspberry foam. There’s also Margareta, a creative version of the classic margarita, with tequila, mezcal, bors (traditional fermented grains), lime and, instead of lime on the rim, powdered smoked paprika. For something different, ask for the house brioche bread (cozonac) syrup cocktail or the smoked hay lemonade. The bar also houses a wide selection of wines from multiple countries, including some excellent local vintages.
‘Before Everything’ is the charming introduction to the before-starters menu, with Romanian dishes with a modern twist such as grilled pie filled with goat telemea cheese covered with Iberico ham, homemade sourdough bread with burduf cream cheese, thin slices of local Mangali?a bacon and shredded black truffle. There’s also fried bread dough with pike roe, smoked sour cream, parsley and chives.
‘To Begin With’ is the starters menu, with an equally strong emphasis on the rich legacy of Romanian cuisine, one handed down from generation to generation. These included a hearty vegetarian dish comprising baked peppers, cherry tomatoes, eggplants and local herbs, the beloved ‘mititei’ or ‘mici,’ rolled pork with accompanying mustard, and whey soured sturgeon soup.
The mains menu offers a challenging choice, ranging from meat dishes such as smoked slow-cooked pork neck with spices, slow grilled with triple texture potatoes, crispy snitzel with mushroom sauce, meatballs made from cow cheeks and rolled cabbage filled with fish, mustard seeds and whey polenta. For vegetarians, there’s the beans puree with herbs and caramalised pleurotus mushrooms.
I chose the free-range chicken confit, the bird fed mainly on corn and beetroot and slow cooked for 12 hours, with triple baked potatoes. Service is both friendly and attentive and the atmosphere uplifting and lively with a rich buzz of conversation when my companion and I were there.
As for dessert, it’s hard, if not impossible, to resist the creative tiramisu-like offering of biscuits soaked in apricot syrup filled with egg-white, cream and marsala wine and powdered with dry herbs of thyme, lovage, parsley and dill, topped with a snow of urda (ricotta) with elderflower syrup.
