Less than two hours from Los Angeles is the bucolic Sta. Rita Hills, growing some of the best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. Why fly up to Napa Valley or Sonoma for a wine country experience, when you can hop in your car to enjoy a celebratory wine tasting weekend getaway.
Recently I had the opportunity to meet the talented winemaker Matt Dees and taste six wines from two of the top Santa Barbara County wineries The Hilt and JONATA. We gathered at Baltaire Steakhouse in Brentwood for food, conversation and sips from a curated selection of his latest releases from both portfolios. He is known for making vibrant coastal estate wines defined by the Pacific.
Growing up in Kansas City, he was a plant kid and went to Vermont to manage trees and learn about soil science. He planted his first vineyard at the age of 18 and started making wine in Vermont in 1998. It was quite an agricultural endeavor. When it got too cold for him, he traveled to Australia, Napa Valley and New Zealand to learn more about making wine. Then at the age of 25 years old, Dees joined JONATA and The Hilt in 2004.
For the past 22 years, Dees has been pushing the boundaries of Santa Barbara County winemaking. These two distinct neighboring sites differ vastly. JONATA is in the AVA Ballard Canyon and The Hilt Estate is located in the Sta. Rita Hills. The wines from these estates reflect Matt’s long-term vision and singular stewardship.
CHARDONNAY WINES
The Hilt Estate is known for making really good Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah wines. Located just a few miles from the ocean in the rugged and extreme southwest corner of Sta. Rita Hills AVA, this region is known for its unique east-west orientation and “refrigerated sunlight” climactic effect.
There are three vineyards: Bentrock, Radian and Puerta del Mar. Radian and Bentrock are the source of some of the most coveted single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines from key producers such as Dragonette, Alma Rosa, Sandhi, and Liquid Farm.
Some of the wines we tasted included the 2023 The Hilt Estate Chardonnay. Dees said this wine “tastes less like wine and more like the place it is from.” Its single vineyard in Santa Barbara County in the Sta. Rita Hills offers a green citrus quality. “There is a bitter lime skin essence that gives a jolt of acidity on the back of your mouth,” said Dees. “There is a saltiness that is almost reminiscent of a divine margarita.”
This Chardonnay tasting went well with Baltaire’s cheesy French Onion soup and Market Green salad. As did the 2023 The Hilt Bentrock Vineyard Chardonnay, offering earthy and herbal aromas, with the flavors of early season nectarine or apricot with honey and golden apple. It’s a “wild and free” Santa Barbara County Chardonnay with hints of brioche, a touch of vanilla bean, jasmine and subtle chamomile.
PLEASING PINOT NOIRS
“Pinot Noir is the most sensual grape,” declared Dees. “It’s the wine of corruption.” As we sipped a pour of 2023 The Hilt Estate Pinot Noir, the winemaker declared that “Pinot has to have a hook to pull your nose in.” This Pinot Noir is bursting with plum, red and black fruit, and has a blood orange quality to it. It’s wildly floral with an ocean wisp drumming up hints of nori seaweed . Sipping this Pinot Noir is like taking a deep breath while walking on a beach.
The texture is silky and fine and finessed structure speaks beautifully together, with fine tannins. It paired nicely with Baltaire’s Salmon Rice Bowl and Jumbo Lump Crab Cake.
Another Pinot Noir that paired well with the Baltaire Butchered Burger and also the Steak Frites was the 2023 The Hilt Radian Vineyard. “There was not a lot of rain, and it was a healthy growing season in 2023,” said Dees. “Too much heat gives the grapes a raisin quality, and we were fortunate that year.” Dees said that this wine is a “aromatic showstopper.” To this winemaker the tapestry of black cherry, rose petal, white pepper and a wisp of clove should be like a dusting of tannins the lingers on your tongue to produce a delightful savory effect.
The Hilt Estate also makes a 2023 Syrah that offers a lovely synergy of high acid fruit from 100% whole clusters that are fermented for 12 days before resting in large tanks for 12 months. “It’s a Syrah that you are afraid will run off the table,” said Dees. It is so enjoyable to drink. On the nose are hints of beautiful Luxardo cherry, dried black mulberry, and green peppercorn. It’s earthy and supple, offering hints of woodsy notes of a Santa Barbara oak forest.
Still tight and young, but it opens in glass and rewards the drinker when aerated. One sip coats the mouth and provides spice-driven tannins. This Syrah shined with Baltaire’s Togarashi Gilled Ahi Tuna.
This blend is 70% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc. It rests for 20 months in 50% new French oak, and 50% twice used French oak to provide a wonderfully expansive push of dark fruit that swirls across the palate.
Experience bottle service curated by a dedicated team of wine experts for your private party of up to 10 guests. This area can be reserved for up to 2.5-hours with a reservation. The cost is $650 site fee paid upon booking and a $550 wine minimum paid at the time of your visit. Charcuterie add-ons are available with prior notice, and all guests must be 21 years or older.
