The true measure of an authentic restaurant often lies in the verdict of someone who knows the cuisine best. Lunch at Counter by Naroon on Great Titchfield Street was shared with my Persian friend, Zara, whose verdict was immediate and unequivocal. “This is exactly how it should taste,” she smiled after the first few mouthfuls. Having been fortunate enough to enjoy Persian home cooking with Zara over the years, I was especially interested to see how Counter by Naroon would compare. I needn’t have wondered. Throughout the meal she continued to point out familiar flavours and thoughtful details, declaring everything we ordered to be wonderfully authentic. It was praise that could hardly carry greater weight.
Counter by Naroon is the casual offshoot of Naroon, the much-loved Persian restaurants founded by cousins Reza and Mo Malekzadeh. Conceived as a more relaxed sibling to its Fitzrovia and Marylebone restaurants, it succeeds in bringing the vibrant flavours of Iran to London’s lunchtime crowd without sacrificing authenticity. Bright, relaxed and refreshingly unfussy, it offers a contemporary introduction to Persian cuisine while remaining firmly rooted in tradition. The warm welcome and efficient service only add to its appeal, making it the sort of place where you immediately feel at ease.
The menu has been thoughtfully designed for modern London life. While wraps, fresh salads and customisable rice bowls cater perfectly for those seeking a quick but satisfying lunch, there is nothing hurried about the quality of the cooking. Counter’s bowls have become something of a Fitzrovia lunchtime institution, with queues regularly forming outside, and after one visit it is easy to understand why. Every dish is generously flavoured with the aromatic hallmarks of Persian cuisine, where saffron, turmeric, cardamom and fresh herbs create layers of flavour that are vibrant, balanced and deeply satisfying.
We both opted for the herb rice, whose fragrant medley of fresh herbs provided the perfect accompaniment to the meal. Light and fluffy, it complemented rather than competed with the other flavours on the plate. I chose the mahi: salmon marinated with saffron and lemon, cooked until beautifully moist with a delicately caramelised exterior. The citrus lifted the richness of the fish, while the saffron imparted its distinctive floral warmth. Zara selected the saffron-marinated joojeh chicken, which she pronounced to be wonderfully authentic, praising both the tenderness of the meat and the balance of the seasoning.
Alongside the salmon, I chose the chickpea salad, whose combination of chickpeas, lentils and fresh herbs added texture and freshness to the meal. A generous spoonful of mast-o-khiar completed the plate, its creamy yoghurt and cucumber providing a refreshing contrast to the warm, aromatic flavours. Nothing felt overcomplicated; every component had its place and every flavour seemed carefully considered.
For pudding, I chose the Baklava Ice Cream, a thoroughly memorable finale. Crisp, buttery pistachio baklava paired beautifully with silky saffron ice cream, the floral notes adding elegance without ever becoming overpowering. It was indulgent yet surprisingly light, and disappeared rather more quickly than I had intended. The menu also offers a number of tempting traditional desserts, including Bastani, the classic Persian saffron, pistachio and rose ice cream, the refreshing Faloodeh with lime and rosewater sorbet threaded with delicate rice noodles, and the intriguing Se-Shir Irani, a Persian interpretation of tres leches infused with saffron and cardamom.
To accompany pudding, I ordered a chai latte which deserves a mention in its own right. Wonderfully aromatic with warming spices and served at exactly the right temperature, it was rich, comforting and beautifully balanced. It proved the perfect way to round off the meal.
Although we visited for lunch, Counter’s weekend brunch menu is reason enough to return. Rather than following London’s well-trodden brunch formula, it showcases distinctive Persian dishes such as Khagineh, a sweet traditional omelette scented with pistachio, cardamom and rose, alongside Pancake Kooie Kaka topped with pumpkin, walnuts, yoghurt and pomegranate. More familiar breakfast favourites also feature, making it an enticing option whether you’re already acquainted with Persian cuisine or discovering it for the first time.
Zara’s remarked upon the authenticity of the cooking, explaining how faithfully the dishes reflected the flavours she had grown up with. That confidence is perhaps Counter by Naroon’s greatest strength. Rather than reinventing Persian cuisine, it celebrates it with quiet assurance and genuine respect for tradition.
Reza Malekzadeh has described Counter as a way of bringing “Persian food into everyday London life”, and that ambition has been realised with considerable success. Counter by Naroon is exactly the sort of independent restaurant London deserves more of: confident in its heritage, generous in its hospitality and quietly exceptional in the quality of its cooking. Whether you’re looking for a quick weekday lunch, an unhurried weekend brunch or simply an introduction to one of the world’s most sophisticated cuisines, it offers an authentic taste of Persia in the heart of Fitzrovia. Judging by both my own experience and Zara’s enthusiastic seal of approval, it is one well worth seeking out.
Counter by Naroon
63 Great Titchfield Street
London W1W 7PR
Telephone: +44 (0)20 7920 6440
Website: https://www.naroon.co.uk/counter
