When a hotel's name means "surprise," my expectations surely rise; such was the case with Alila, whose Sanskrit name translates to just that. During my last trip to Malaysia and Indonesia, there was no greater sheer surprise than Alila Ubud, a modern marvel that rests on the floor of an untouched jungle in Bali.
As you approach the property, it offers the first inkling of surprise. Other resorts in the arts and cultural center of Ubud sit directly on the street crowded with buzzing motorbikes and strolling school children. But Alila Ubud sits unremarkably a few miles away from the center, alongside idyllic golden green rice paddies that touch the horizon. About a mile from the turn off, you'll drive past the flat rice fields into a thicket of lush jungle canopies.
The property rests right above the Ayung River that forms the rolling foothills of central Bali. All the eye can see from the lobby, pool, or any deck is an interrupted band of spectacular emerald green. I don't think I've ever seen such a color before, but then again, I’ve never hovered above a tropical lush jungle either.
The design is another delightful marvel. Kerry Hill, the lauded Australian architect who specializes in tropical Asian hotel design, created its immaculate modern aesthetic with Balinese influence. Natural materials, such as polished woods and grey stones, balance the clean lines of the property so as not to seem out of place in the jungle environment. The elongated vanishing edge pool, flanked with deck chairs meticulously lined along the rectangular deck, appears to hover right above the Ayung River valley floor several stories below.
The 56 rooms and eight villas are clustered in the shape of a Balinese village and are hoisted on stilts. Each features spacious square courtyards, open-air rock-formed showers, and unobstructed canopy views. Even the indoor/outdoor lobby, much like all its public spaces, is notable for its intricate stonework and soaring thatched ceilings.
One of my favorite activities was the introduction to Balinese cuisine. The day started early at 7 a.m. when the resort’s executive chef Erwan, an exceedingly charming native Balinese, escorted me to the local Payangan market. Chef Erwan showed me around each stall at the market, as he purchased a variety of herbs, fruits, and grains we’d be using during the late morning cooking. Payangan market is accessible to tourists, but much more enjoyable with a well-respected chef who clearly knows his price points and produce quality.
Back at the resort’s sculpture garden, I threw on a resort apron, a lovely memento I was able to take home. Together, Chef Erwan and I made eight authentic Indonesian dishes. Nasi Bungkus prepared with coconut rice, sambal chili and wrapped neatly in banana leafs; along with Tipat Cantok Kacang made of compacted rice seasoned with peanuts, chili, a bit of lime juice and bean sprouts, were two of my favorite items. The feast was enjoyed under a white private canopy surrounded by a curious group of monkeys and the regal rock sculpture.
With a modern aesthetic juxtaposed in an unmatchable jungle utopia, Alila Ubud is the standout choice in Bali. Plus, now that I have Chef Erwan’s recipes at the ready, perhaps I can return soon as a sous chef.
