The retreat stands as a permanent reminder of a different era of travel. Unlike the contemporary trend of minimalist canvas camps, Chichele is a grand manor house. It sits atop a hill, which is an architectural rarity in a region where most safari camps are tucked away close to the riverbanks. From this elevation, the view stretches across the vast sweep of the South Luangwa valley floor. Herds of impala bound through the grasslands, their lyre shaped horns catching the light, while puku graze near the water. From this vantage point, the park feels immense and alive, yet the real shift in perspective happens when stepping off that ridge and into the valley itself.

The history of the property is closely tied to the birth of modern Zambia. In the early 1970s, the country’s first president, Dr. Kenneth Kaunda, selected this hilltop for a simple reason: the view was the finest in the country. By establishing his personal retreat here, he effectively protected the surrounding landscape from development. Over the years, the lodge welcomed an extraordinary list of dignitaries, including Queen Elizabeth II. Even today, after an extensive reconstruction in 2025, the building retains a certain gravitas.

The interiors strike a balance between that mid century political heritage and modern luxury. Dark teak furniture, polished stone floors, and brass accents define the spaces. The Vista Suites are suspended along the hillside, offering a panoramic view of the savannah directly from the bed. The design uses terracotta reds and deep ochres to reflect the minerals of the valley floor. One of the most striking features is the private terrace and plunge pool. Sitting in the water while watching elephants move through the woodland below offers a sense of scale that is hard to find elsewhere.

While the retreat is a sanctuary of refined comfort, the true draw of South Luangwa is the visceral nature of the wildlife encounters. During one morning game drive, hours were spent tracking giraffes and watching a pod of more than one hundred hippos packed into a bend of the river. As the return journey began, we entered a small clearing beneath a broad acacia tree where a full bush breakfast had been set up. Standing in the middle of the bush while eating fresh pancakes prepared on a cast iron griddle felt wonderfully surreal. It was a moment of polished hospitality in an otherwise unforgiving environment.

That sense of surrealism shifted into something far more immediate during the walking safari. The concept of walking among wild animals carries a particular brand of madness for the uninitiated. It is the sudden, jarring removal of mental safety that occurs when one is no longer protected by the frame of a vehicle. Every rustle in the tall grass and every snapping twig carries a new weight. The lead guides, Simossa and Johane, led the way. Simossa appeared to be a composite of a research biologist and a lifelong outdoorsman. Johane, a slight man, carried a .375 calibre rifle that seemed nearly as large as he was. While Simossa assured us the weapon was rarely used, its presence provided a strange sense of comfort as we stepped into the wild.

Just as Simossa began the orientation, the low and unmistakable roar of a lion vibrated through the air. It was a sound that felt as much like a physical sensation as an auditory one. The hair on the back of the neck stood up, a primitive response triggered by a cocktail of fear and intense excitement. Simossa nodded calmly and noted that the lion was about one hundred yards away. He then suggested setting off in that direction. And so we did. Tracking predators on foot creates a level of engagement with the landscape that is impossible to achieve from a seat in a vehicle. One learns to read the ground with the same intensity as the guides. A faint indentation in the dust or a broken branch becomes a vital piece of information.

Zambia offers a version of Africa that feels increasingly rare. From the historical weight of the rooms at Chichele to the adrenaline of a lion’s roar heard from the ground, the experience is defined by a sense of profound connection to the land. This is a place where the horizon still belongs to the wild and the human presence is merely a temporary, respectful witness. To stand on that hilltop at dusk is to realize that while the world outside continues to accelerate, the Luangwa Valley remains anchored in its own timeless rhythm, a majestic sanctuary where the past and the wild are woven into the very fabric of the earth.

Chichele Presidential is a proud member of the Zambia Luxury Lodge Collection, and further details regarding its storied heritage and modern amenities can be found on its official website.