Geneva Watch Days is now a prominent event in the horological calendar. Originally the show was launched in 2020 by six Founding Members – Breitling, Bvlgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F. However, the exhibition has now expanded to 52 different brands showcasing over a hundred exquisite timepieces. Here I noticed a very unusual offering from Konstantin Chaykin called ‘ThinKing’ which is now the world’s slimmest watch. Although still at the prototype stage, the timepiece has a depth of only 1.65mm and requires a special winding tool. I really admire the technical wizardry involved in accomplishing this feat. However, personally, I prefer watches with a more three-dimensional appearance. I feel this broader canvas allows watchmakers to experiment with more Avant-Garde designs. The Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ from MB&F perfectly illustrates this point.
Since 2005 MB&F has established itself as one of the most exciting watchmakers in the industry. As well as creating extraordinary timepieces founder Maximilian Büsser has also embarked on numerous collaborations with renowned luxury brands. In fact, they have just teamed up with L’Epée 1839 to co-create an exceptionally complicated clock called the ‘Albatross’ comprising 1520 individual components. This magnificent mechanical masterpiece was recently unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2024.
Recently I featured two MB&F timepieces in my 9th book entitled ‘Timeless Classics’ which is a detailed study of modern dress watches. However, as a designer, I’ve always gravitated towards their much larger Horological Machines. I feel these timepieces have really allowed Maximilian Büsser and friends to push the boundaries of contemporary watchmaking. In my opinion, the Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ is one of their boldest compositions. This is illustrated in the colossal 57mm x 47mm x 23mm Jet engine inspired case (conceived by Eric Giroud) available in a choice of luxurious 5N red gold or Grade 5 titanium. What makes this watch so aesthetically pleasing is the abundance of sapphire crystal (5 windows in total with anti-reflective treatment).
Beneath the 3D architectural façade lies a highly sophisticated in-house developed (Guillaume Thévenin / MB&F) single barrel hand winding movement. This 52-jewel Calibre comprises 301 parts and oscillates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour. The mechanism also has two independent balance wheels with planetary differentials. Functionally the Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ displays hours on a choice of speedometer or aviation-style dials. The watch also has a power reserve of 45 hours and is water resistant to a depth of 30 metres.
As a perfect finale the Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ is presented on a hand-stitched brown calf-leather strap with custom-designed titanium or red gold 5N+ folding buckle.
