For hundreds of years, ever since it was discovered that distilled wine kept in oak barrels led to tantalising taste changes, cognac connoisseurs have presented to the world their creative concoctions.
With the annual Cognac Day Celebrations taking place on June 4, here are three interesting brands from the heart of the Cognac region, Grande Champagne, that have gained immense respect for their high level of quality.
‘Haut juché, juche le plus haut’ (Go high to see far) is the proud motto at the foot of a majestic symbolic rooster of this Master Blender family tracing their history to 1894 at their 25-hectare vineyard, Domaine de la Pouyade, in the heart of Grande Champagne.
Now, five generations later, led by Christophe Fillioux and his team Christine, Emma, Philippe, Maxime and Virginie, they have created a wide variety of Cognacs in a region known as ‘the golden triangle’ of Angeac-Champagne, Verrières and Juillac-le-Coq.
From vines established on the sunny slopes of a limestone fault, the young eaux-de-vie are aged in red barrels which have contained Cognacs for 5 to 10 years, which keep the elegance and freshness of the grape and are often more floral. Those spirits intended to age for 20 years and more are placed in new barrels for 3 to 5 years, then in old barrels so tannins of the wood melt and soften. After 20 years, the wood delivers aromas of honey, vanilla, coconut, cinnamon, spices, as well as fruits such as orange, pear, tangerine, banana and flowers of jasmine and rose.
The French oak barrels are mainly from the Limousin region, a loose-grain tree that releases its tannins and aromas widely. Some barrels are from the Tronçay forest, a tight grained oak that brings other families of aromas.
“We try to create Cognacs with a surprising level of complexity: no burning taste, with a long and delicious finish,” said Christophe.
The Award-winning Moulin Rouge is one of the vineyard’s most distinctive Cognacs, designated as a ‘Decanter of Style,’ a designation that also includes Subtil & So…VSOP and So Elegantissime. Aged 25 to 30 years, Moulin Rouge is deep amber in colour, attractive and bright. Sweet and elegant spice taste emerges at first, followed by coffee, chocolate and savory perfumes from the oak barrels. There is a sense of round fruit touch on the palate, silky, with spicy character, and a long finish. It’s highly recommended with a caramelised apple pie, dark chocolate dessert or even blue cheese.
Among the vineyard’s other Cognacs are Classics such as Le Coq and Napoleon, Cep D’Or and Tres Vieux, the latter aged 25-30 years, powerful and elegant with strong vanilla aroma on the nose and on the palate with notes of jammy fruit, orange marmalade, quince and pear. ‘Cognacs of Exception’ include La Pouyade, XO Grande Reserve, Cigar Club and Reserve Familiale and No. 1.
For almost 400 years, Paul Giraud’s ancestors have been making cognac and now he and his son, also Paul, proudly continue this illustrious French distilling tradition.
My companion and I enjoyed a pleasant Sunday afternoon sitting outside at a garden table with Paul, tasting his products while learning from him about the history and origins of this specialised French drink.
The elder Paul, stands in his distillery, a classic old wooden barn, and points around him at some of the vintage copper equipment used for generations and explains the double distilling process, while outside a row of modern stainless steel containers stands glistening in the sunlight.
“Our philosophy is to be artisans of cognac: we only offer cognacs made from our own vines, vinified, distilled and aged by us, here in Bouteville,” he said. proudly “Our satisfaction lies in doing everything, from vine to glass, to satisfy lovers of fine cognacs.”
Cognac, he added, requires 30 months minimum in French oak barrels, but Paul keeps his product beyond the minimum, often for eight, 15 and 25 years, creating a smooth flavour on the palette, with aromas ranging from almond, rancio and vanilla to apricot, peach and plum. Paul also has 10 and 12-year-old single casks. His most vintage bottles are 80 years old, selling at around 300 euro.
On a 50-hectare vineyard stretching across undulating hills outside the quiet town of Bouteville in the heart of the Grande Champagne sub-region of Cognac, the two Pauls produce around 100,000 bottles from the surrounding chalky terrain annually.
Representing his 11th family generation of wine-makers dating back to 1635 growing the special Ugni Blanc grape variety for true cognac, including seven bearing the first name Paul, the amicable vignerons are among the very few producers in the region still handpicking some of his harvest.
Boutevillois terroir consists of Cretaceous clay-limestone soils, layered between Campanian and Santonian, which produce cognacs with fine, elegant and delicate aromatic notes; their bouquet is a blend of flowers and stone fruits.
Paul Giraud cognacs, under names such as ‘Napoleon,’ ‘Heritage’ and ‘Elegance,’ are present in more than thirty-five countries worldwide, with Japan as his number one market. He also supplies products for the Martell blend.
Hardy owes its name as a leading Cognac producer to 19th-century British wine merchant, Anthony Hardy, who fell in love with all things French, moving across the English Channel to live there, founding his company in 1863 and even changing his name to Antoine.
Since then, the Charente-based company has created cognacs whose elegance, subtlety and distinctive character have led to a strong brand name worldwide, the eaux-de-vie from Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, and Colombard grape varieties maturing in Limousin oak barrels for years, thus acquiring their complex and aromatic character.
Maison Hardy flourished from its origins, winning prestige with its Fine Cognac Contrôlée at the Amsterdam exhibition in 1869. Today it is led by fifth-generation family member Bénédicte Hardy, who works closely with farmers from multiple crus, which are then blended by Hardy’s maître de chai in their facilities along the Charente River.
Among a wide range of cognacs it produces, its Hardy XO Rare is particularly distinctive, a fine blend of Grande and Petite Champagne eaux-de-vie aged for 15 to 25 years in barrels, resulting in an elegant cognac with a balanced mix of floral and fruity notes, including dates, rose petals, dried figs, and apricots. On the palate are ginger and light tobacco, with a finish of toffee and leather.
Other offerings include Cognac VS, Cognac VSOP, Legend 1863, which won double gold at last year’s World Spirits Competition in San Francisco, Noces d’Argent, the latest in a wedding anniversary series, Noces d’Or and VSOP Organic, with its nose of spring flowers and palate of vanilla, hazelnut and pear.
