Cold minimalism was a favorite feature during Yigal Azrouël’s Spring 2014 show this weekend at New York Fashion Week. Models were sent out wearing a very industrial urban style and a New York attitude that rocked the runway. A muted color palette of spring favorites, black and white, felt new and chic with slouchy fabrics, harsh angles and feminine silhouettes. Mostly void of hardware, the light zipper detailing was well done, a fresh take on the large conspicuous back zipper that we’ve seen a million times before. The collection holds its own on texture and shape alone, and it is amazingly good.
The harsh print of black linear scribbles on a white background keeps in theme with the angular lines and geometric patterns that weigh so heavily on each piece. While some of the disproportionate jackets, oversized shirts and asymmetrical dresses are flirting with the line between women and menswear, it works well with the urban, high-fashion vibe. Textured leathers and perforated fabrics in feminine cuts play on the overall androgynous look. While the dalliances into menswear are mostly slouchy and straight, the more feminine pieces focus on a woman’s body, with curves and tailoring in all the right places to evoke a hidden sexuality. Cutouts along the back, hipline and above the breasts (it’s more tasteful than it sounds) are all figure flattering pieces.
This sense of simple (if not opposing) ambiguity runs throughout the collection from loose trouser pants to minimal makeup and slicked back hair. Kept in low buns at the back of the head, the models’ locks we’re pulled back and flat, paired with bold brows and deep cheekbones. Nude lips and a bare face finished off the look.