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France Bans Skinny Models: Could This Be a Move in the Wrong Direction?

french law models

Photos Courtesy of Shutterstock

When France passed a bill last week banning “excessively thin” fashion models from runway and catalog work, the internet rang out with a resounding “yes!” thrilled that it seemed, finally, things were moving in the right direction. But while many of us are sitting on the sidelines applauding a new bill that has the potential to improve body image, healthy young models and even runway vets could potentially lose their jobs. The bill, which is part of a larger health campaign by President Francois Hollande, states that models must be over 18 years of age and have a BMI of at least 18. If they fail to meet this requirement they could be fined up to €75,000 (approx. $81,200) or face up to six months jail time. In addition, any images that have been photoshopped have to be notated as such and any site “seek[ing] excessive thinness by encouraging eating restrictions for a prolonged period of time” could face fines of up to €100,000 (approx. $108,200) and spend a year in prison.

french law models

Sound strict? It is. It’s intended to crack down on eating disorders in France, specifically anorexia which reportedly affects 30,000 to 40,000 teenagers in the country. While it’s common knowledge models have passed away from the disease—including big names like Isabella Caro and Ana Carolina Reston—those in the industry see this as the wrong way to deal with a bigger issue. "When you look at the criteria behind anorexia, you can't look only at the body mass index when other criteria are also involved: psychological, a history of hair loss, dental problems," the head of SYNAM, Isabelle Saint-Felix, told AFP. "It's important that the models are healthy, but it's a little simplistic to think there won't be any more anorexics if we get rid of very thin models."

french law models

Of course, France is not the first country to pass a health bill for models in the fashion industry. Spain became the first country to pass such a law in 2006. In 2012 Israel passed a law banning underweight models, and Italy and Spain followed suit shortly after adopting their own restrictions. The CFDA in the U.S. focuses more on awareness and guidelines, rather than specific numbers. Denmark has recently taken more drastic measures and instead of fining brands is simply blacklisting or banning companies.

french law models

“It is more hurtful for a brand or a company to be banned and blacklisted by the industry than paying a fine,” Eva Kruse, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week told WWD. “We are taking responsibility for the body image that we send out. A company that doesn’t respect the rules would be banned from Copenhagen Fashion Week and blacklisted.” This not only extends to annual medical and psychological checks, but also everyday health such as providing food for models when they’re working. But even Kruse, an advocate for stricter regulations, believes a BMI standard is not the best way to ascertain who should and should not work. “The comments that we get from medical experts is that considering the BMI only is a narrow-minded approach; it doesn’t go deep enough,” she explained.

french law models

The bill still needs to voted on by parliament then approved by the senate before it will become law, but those in the industry are concerned that this measure is structured around a BMI number rather than the mental and physical health of each model. Instead of focusing on the treatment of women in the industry and making sure they get the help and respect they deserve, it leaves little room for interpretation and does not address the underlying issues associated with anorexia. A BMI calculation cannot differentiate between someone who has more muscle, is naturally thin or actually has an eating disorder, and as a result could put many perfectly healthy women out of jobs.

Marissa Stempien

Marissa Stempien is a freelance writer and editor with a focus on travel, fashion, lifestyle, and culture. Her work has been featured in a number of print and online publications including ABC News, Popsugar, Huffington Post, JustLuxe, Luxury Living and CityGirlGoneMom. Marissa is an avid traveler and is always looking to visit somewhere new or unexplored. Her unique lifestyle has given way to her...(Read More)

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