The fusion of prints ranged from dainty to animated. English artists Lynn Chadwick and Glenn Brown influenced Brood’s fluid and complex prints, much like those seen at ICB by Prabal Gurung. Pyjama dressing is still on trend as the Olsen sisters delivered tightly flower printed silk pyjamas for Elizabeth and James. Elsewhere, Lela Rose presented sleeveless shift dresses in linear and geometric fabrics (a nod to Dallas’ Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge), and Johnson Hartig mixed embellished and quilted knits with dark floral prints for Libertine.
Although prints appeared in wintry palettes, there was a prominent display of warmer themes and vivacious hues. RED Valentino and Calla selected baby pinks and creams for their girly ensembles, whereas Jenni Kaye’s yellow ankle trousers, Tracey Reese’s pleated tangerine dress and Juan Carlos Obando’s electric pink dress shocked us with neon infusions. Anna Sui delighted us with a conglomerate of jovial blue knit hats, pink tweeds and Cyan blue prints, while Jeremy Scott produced a rainbow spectacle.
Between all the prints and colors, attention was also drawn toward the past as designers explored vintage-inspired looks. L’Wren Scott’s crimson velvet dress, canary yellow shrugs and embroidered cardigans referenced WWII-era England. Ralph Lauren’s similarly ‘40s-influenced presentation featured models in boyish hunting coats, knitted vests and checked trousers as they walked to the theme of Downtown Abbey. At Oscar de la Renta, pastel skirt suits and twin sets were enriched by jewel illustrated prints reminiscent of ‘60s aristocracy (think Jacqueline Kennedy or Audrey Hepburn circa Breakfast at Tiffany’s). Giuletta’s Sofia Sissi also looked towards the ‘60s, but took a mod turn with heavily structured garments.
Highlighting details and playful embellishments also made NYFW an exciting affair. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler hit audiences with boxy white jackets with staggered zips and quilted leather wrap skirts. Also inspired by Japanese culture, Zac Posen was praised for his exaggerated obi belts and sexy, tailored cocktail dresses in red, gold and black.
