At day’s end, while strolling Puerto Vallarta’s Malecón, the seawall boardwalk and heart of the city’s energy, I noticed a shift. Heads turned, cameras aimed and conversations paused. It was sunset – a transformation from daylight’s expansive baby blue sky to blended tie-dyed shades of golden rod, tangerine and lavender. And while a visually extraordinary scene, here, it is an ordinary nightly ritual – albeit an impressive ritual.
While I’ve traveled to the state of Jalisco’s primary city, Puerto Vallarta (www.visitpuertovallarta.com), numerous times, this visit was different. Yes, it was the same exuberant, flamboyant, festive town nestled between Banderas Bay and the Sierra Madre Mountains. But with the guidance of like-minded locals, I saw a side that went beyond typical tourist lures.
So, follow me on my journey that started days with made-in-Mexico adventures and ended them with epicurean memories.
Post sunset, the first evening’s magic continued – from my pursuit of seeing twilight’s ever-elusive green flash (and, no, I didn’t) and an impromptu dance to the beat of on-the-street pop-up performers to a sophisticated meal at La Cappella Restaurant. Perched high on a hill overlooking the city’s beloved anchor and most recognized landmark, the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe and its distinctive crown-topped bell tower, the restaurant has been described as “where the beauty of Puerto Vallarta’s ocean meets the elegance of fine dining.” It costarred Italian and international cuisine (think slow-cooked pork leg with creamy polenta and garlic-infused butter-baked lobster tail) within an atmosphere reminiscent of a historical Spanish colonial chapel. Featuring detailed mosaics, religious statuaries, ornately painted ceilings and encircled by candles, the experience’s crescendo was a strolling serenade of consummate violinists.
Early the following morning, I sped from the Maritime Terminal aboard a luxury catamaran yacht with Vallarta Adventures to a secluded cove for snorkeling – akin to swimming in an aquarium – followed by a visit to the accessible-only-by-water private island of Majahuitas. With a backdrop of the jungle and to the sound of music, embedded in the sand was an inviting collection of cushioned sofas, chaise lounges and hammocks beneath swaying palms and raised sun umbrellas. Best part: this hidden beach club, though only 45 minutes from Puerto Vallarta’s in-town dock, seemed an in-the-know secret – one of the destination’s many such secrets.
Resting on the edge of Puerto Vallarta’s Cuale River, which runs from the mountains through town and into the sea, Le Bistro Restaurant projected both Old World European charm and riverside ambiance, especially when seated upon a black wrought-iron chair at a white, starched cloth-covered table beneath the patio’s natural awning of trees. Attention to detail was evident in its elevated cuisine, described as modern Mexican fare – from white corn cream soup and red snapper ceviche to duck enchiladas – all conceived using the freshest of local ingredients.
For a non-stop adrenaline rush, cue Canopy River Park. Located about 45 minutes from the city within the Sierra Madres, this multitudinous-acre eco park was ensconced within a dramatically varied topography – dense jungle intermingled with perpendicular canyons and gaping crevices. Here, adventure was from horseback riding or trail hiking to ziplining and all-terrain vehicles, including ATVs and RZRs. Experiences ranged from a couple of hours to an entire day. The choice: yours. Mine was a sampling from a RZR.
After changing into a long-sleeved shirt, full-length pants, as well as close-toed shoes and donning a helmet, protective eyeglasses and a scarf secured over my nose and mouth (note: in dry season, dust flies), I strapped into one of the vehicle’s four-point harnesses and we were off. Stops included a variety of scenic lookouts – the elevated glass platform, Jorullo Point, situated high above the valley gorge and a cool-down stop on the banks of the Cuale River. The journey’s exclamation point was to slowly traverse Jorullo Bridge, a 1,542-foot suspension bridge (Mexico’s longest) at a height of 492 feet above the river on which a limited number of vehicles were allowed to cross at one time.
And for an authentic treat at the ride’s end was a refreshing pajarete – a typical Mexican morning beverage traditionally enjoyed by ranchers – made from fresh raw cow’s milk (hand milked as I waited), high-proof alcohol and such flavorings as chocolate, coffee, sugar and cinnamon.
Lunch, a full-blown Mexican buffet offered Saturdays and Sundays at Canopy River Park’s Los Coapinoles Restaurant, featured such native specialties as handmade tortillas, squash flowers, rajas poblanas, red menudo and birria tacos, all while enjoying caballero entertainment.
Under the tutelage of Chef Mauricio Leal, who trained at Paris’ prestigious Gregoire Ferrandi School, Zona Romántica’s ICÚ Restaurant has garnered award-winning recognition. Chef’s philosophy has been described as using seasonal produce to take established dishes of Mexican cuisine and make them in his own way and to give a Mexican touch to time-honored food fare from other regions. And in addition to ICÚ’s inventive craft cocktail menu was its wine cellar – comprised exclusively of Mexican wines.
Swimming with dolphins was the flawless finale. Operated by Wildlife Connection, this ecotourism operator was established in 1998 by a biologist and wildlife photographer. Its purpose was to give participants the opportunity to become short-term “researchers” by coming into contact with animals in their natural environments from small, shaded fast boats – the best way to approach in a non-threatening manner. On board, accredited guides shared their knowledge. I learned that the reality of swimming with marine mammals was dependent on a trio of conditions – the dolphin’s type group, activity and mood – with juveniles’ tendency for curiosity presenting the greatest likelihood. Because of the seasonal timing, the dolphins we encountered were bottlenose, and because of any number of factors, we were able to enter the water near them but not swim next to them.
Homebase: Velas Vallarta Hotel (www.velasvallarta.com). Situated seven minutes from the airport within Marina Vallarta on Banderas Bay, this eight-story hotel sitting gracefully amid 10 lush acres was well appointed. From a welcome plate of macaroons and chocolate-covered strawberries greeting me upon arrival to the courtyard/ocean view enjoyed from the bougainvillea-draped balcony of every room, my stay was pamper personified. This was a place with 24-hour suite service, three restaurants (including La Ribera, an open-air, beneath-a-palapa, full-service Mexican cantina-style eatery with steps leading to the beach), three pools, numerous bars and an exclusive boutique – all punctuated by peacocks wandering the grounds.
And, every night, a view – of the Puerto Vallarta sunset.
