Imagine a stay in London’s quiet, exclusive City of Westminster and waking to a walk of mere blocks to Buckingham Palace.

Imagine afternoon tea beneath a portrait of Queen Elizabeth and evening cocktails in a bar with WWII spy connections.

In short, imagine St. Ermin’s Hotel www.sterminshotel.co.uk.

A bit of backstory. Years before today’s perfectly renovated showplace was transformed from yesteryear’s hotel of intrigue, I was a guest. So, for me, this stayover was like revisiting an old memory. Much of St. Ermin’s had changed, including in-room cast iron radiators, which had doubled as clothing heaters during my long-ago trip in below-freezing temps. However, set off a quiet residential block of highly fashionable red brick mansions, the Queen Anne style boutique property’s initial impression – a horseshoe-shaped building dramatically set from the street – remained. Encircling a then car park, now lavish foliaged courtyard, I walked beneath a greenery-covered arch to the multi-stepped entrance.

“Welcome to St. Ermin’s,” greeted Glenno, a bowler-hatted doorman who ushered me into the perfectly appointed white-wedding-cake-like lobby. The hotel’s ornate Baroque-revival style reception area – adorned by dramatically suspended crystal chandeliers and dotted with a variety of intimate seating areas – was centered around a sweeping grand staircase. 

A change of ownership in 2010 led to a two-year, $45 million restoration and redevelopment. The result: a Four-Star, Grade II listed design hotel with Victorian sensibilities and 21st century innovations. Now a part of the Marriott Autograph Collection, renovation of the 330-room property was committed to retaining its traditional flair, including original Rococo plasterwork and marble flooring.

Early morning at St. Ermin’s revealed a city coming to life in the slow-paced, exclusive style expected of this historical city – with one well-dressed man reading the morning newspaper in the quaint library, housekeeping at the bank of elevators polishing the lift’s brass signage and a large family’s mum pouring her first cup of coffee from a silver urn at the restaurant’s entrance.

Renowned for its storied history, St. Ermin’s was the haunt of the British Intelligence Service from the 1930s on. It was the birthplace of Special Operations Executive (SOE) – an organization formed in 1940 to conduct espionage, sabotage and reconnaissance in German-occupied Europe. Before WWII, it served as a venue for MI6 guerilla warfare classes and during the war the country’s SOE took over an entire floor as its headquarters, with MI6 stationed two floors above. Nicknamed the “House of Spies,” it was the spot for traitorous meetups and the liaison point between the Cambridge Five Spy Ring, including double agents Philby and Maclean, and their Soviet handlers. And in 1965 a replica of Westminster Hall was created in the hotel’s ballroom to allow soldiers to rehearse movements for Winston Churchill’s funeral.

Here, it’s said that Sir Winston Churchill devised his SOE plan on the back of a menu and John Lennon wrote the original lyrics of “A Hard Day’s Night” on a birthday card intended for his son Julian. Rumor has it that a secret tunnel ran from the hotel to Westminster Abbey. And in testament to the proximity of the Abbey and Parliament was placement of a division bell which still hangs in the lobby. Rung to signal MPs (Members of Parliament) they had eight minutes to fast walk back to the legislative government building for a vote, assorted bells were once installed in hotels, pubs and restaurants around the City of Westminster.

So connected was St. Ermin’s to the Crown and the UK government, it was vetted by Buckingham Palace and No 10 Downing for visits from such luminaries as Prince Philip and Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher (it was here that she announced the UK’s membership in the EU).

Located in the hotel lobby and in tribute to its covert past, a mini museum showcased uniforms and gadgets used by agents during the war. Comprised of such items as coded silk scarves for airmen and hidden communication devices, many of the displayed articles were devised by Charles Fraser-Smith during his tenure with the Ministry of Supply. Fraser-Smith has been credited as the inspiration for Q in Ian Fleming’s Bond novels. 

Self-described as “dog friendly, family friendly and business friendly,” St. Ermin’s rooms and suites varied in the style of the accommodation and the individual look of the room, though all were luxuriously appointed with such amenities as marble bathrooms, printed fabric curtains, deluxe bedding and an in-room assortment of tea selections, along with a Nespresso machine.

Its food and drink scene was equally rich. Caxton Bar’s cocktail menu paid homage to the hotel’s history with signature drinks incorporating such ingredients as St. Ermin’s own spirits, fresh local produce and its rooftop-produced honey. Its own London Dry Gin has been winner of a gold award in the London Spirits Competition and silver in the International Wine and Spirit Competition, and its spiced rum was a blend of the finest from Trinidad, Dominican and Venezuela.

Caxton Grill appeared somewhat of a dichotomy – relaxed and friendly in a traditional, formal environment. Its daily breakfast buffet served up “everything” – a selection of hot egg dishes, grilled meats, potato cakes, and, in tribute to the destination, baked beans and black pudding, as well as yogurt, fruit, pastries and breads.

The dining room menu was an impressive manifestation of its rooftop kitchen garden (specifically designed beds, pots and greenhouses bursting with fruit, veggies and herbs) and honey harvested from its bee hives, in combo with fresh regional produce and the head chef’s creativity. The results ranged from British shoreline catch of the day and North Atlantic lobster with garlic butter to harissa lamb chops, 48-hour slow cooked beef short ribs and grass-fed Aberdeen Angus 28-day dry-aged tomahawk steak. 

It’s been said: “If you’re British, it’s always tea time.” A quintessential Old English tradition, St. Ermin’s afternoon tea was offered daily in the mezzanine tea lounge and on the outdoor terrace overlooking the courtyard. In addition to freshly baked scones with clotted cream and homemade jam, it featured tiers of savory and sweet treats ranging from Goldstein smoked salmon mousse with crème fraiche and poached Suffolk chicken breast with barbecue corn to lemon and cranberry cake along with a raspberry and pistachio tartlet. Its wide selection of teas was from Tea Makers of London. Overwhelmed with choices, server Jacqueline’s suggestion of authentic masala chai with oat milk (her personal favorite) provided the perfect punctuation to my final day.

In the end, my St. Ermin’s goodbye was bittersweet as I wasn’t yet ready to end my up-close-and-personal lesson in history.