Kahani means ‘Story’ in Urdu; the story in question being that of celebrated chef-owner Peter Joseph, whose influences include his Indian heritage, the concept of sharing food picked up on his travels in Spain, and the best of British produce. Originally from Chennai, Joseph trained at ITC Sheraton and then moved to London. He worked for 14 years at Tamarind, Mayfair (the first Indian restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star), originally joining as sous chef in 2004 and becoming head chef there in 2012. Kahani represents Joseph’s first solo venture.
The restaurant is located in a charming subterranean setting in Wilbraham Place – a stone’s throw from Sloane Square. In previous incarnations, this was home to European and French cuisine in the guises of Canvas and Le Cercle, respectively. Kahani is the first Indian restaurant to occupy this particular premises, and it is a welcome arrival. Chelsea has a paucity of upper-rung Indian restaurants, and has quickly attracted a loyal local following as a result.
Past a large green door and down a wooden staircase, gently glowing with warm uplighting, the restaurant has been tastefully redesigned, with an intimate and sophisticated ambiance. With its exposed brickwork, high ceilings, brass details, plush mossy furnishings, funky light fittings and indoor palms, the 90-cover dining room is elegant and modern. For those seeking seclusion, there is also a private dining room for up to ten guests, set apart from the main restaurant on a separate floor.
The front of the house is immensely affable, and very smart too, in their Harrods-green waistcoats. A wine cellar is visible behind a glass window and the kitchen is also semi-open. Light muzak played as my husband and I contemplated the menu of exotica such as sirloin kebab with truffle oil, fennel and cumin.
The menu is set out as a “small plates” format but despite some unusual dishes like the sirloin kebab, is pretty conventional. Several dishes are available either as starters or mains. There is a tasting menu at £70, as well as a vegetarian version at £65, but we went a la carte.
There is an extensive wine list, ranging in price from around £30 to £700. It is arranged by style rather than country, with categories such as “fruity red” and “crisp white”.
The arrival of the poppadoms, accompanied by three sensational traffic light-colored chutneys, confirms from the get-go that you are in for quite some culinary ride. The ‘small plates’ (read: starters) then take it up a gear – spiced chickpeas, attractively drenched with sweet yogurt and tamarind chutney, show-stopping soft-shell crab, beet cakes with a crunchy curry leaf and poppadum crust.
The mains make use of the finest British produce, spiced up and at its most mouthwatering. Think Guinea fowl enmeshed in chettinad spices, Venison with fenugreek and shallots, and perfectly smoked Malabar Prawns. There are curries, of course – a mild but flavorsome Keralan fish curry, and Kahani’s signature butter chicken - bright orange and super-silky, best mopped up with garlicky naan
We nearly made the grave error of not ordering pudding, but fortunately our waiter looked aghast when we pronounced ourselves too full to carry on. Had we not heeded his advice, we would have missed out on the sublime melting chili-chocolate bomb, which collapses dramatically on a mousse with sweet, milky bits of gulab jamun. Less flamboyant, yet no less scrumptious, is the medley of kulfi – pistachio, rose malai, and salted caramel, which is light and delicate - the perfect conclusion to a night of gastronomic decadence.
Kahani is the Indian restaurant that Chelsea has been hankering after - with flavorsome food, a fabulous atmosphere, and spot-on service. Kahani’s story is at once satiating, enthralling and above all, enjoyable: the ultimate combination in both story-telling and gastronomy.
Kahani currently has a great value set Festive Lunch Menu for £28 (3 courses). The restaurant will also be open on Christmas Day, with a 5-course menu (£88) and lastly, open NYE, with 5 courses for £85.
Address: 1 Wilbraham Pl, Belgravia, London SW1X 9AE Phone: 020 7730 7634 Website: kahanilondon.com
