Of Michael Mina’s many restaurants worldwide, his San Francisco flagship has long served as the heartbeat of his gastronomic empire. The Financial District locale at 252 California St. was originally conceived as the elegant, seafood centric AQUA. It then became simply MICHAEL MINA, a Michelin-starred endeavor where his sensational ‘trios’ menu was served in a sumptuous and swank environ. Another iteration saw Mina paying homage to his Egyptian heritage with a menu focused on Middle Eastern spices and flavors. Today, the hallowed space is home to Estiatorio Ornos, offering an elevated menu of Greek specialties and the region’s first ‘fish sommelier.’
The evolution includes a reimagining of the interior, which has seen its share of design changes over the years. Former understated hues of greys and blues now give way to bright whites, corals and sea blue aqua – colors reminiscent of the Greek Isles. Featuring walls lined with high-backed, Hollywood-style booths and whimsical Grecian-themed paintings, the dining room is vibrant and convivial, exuding a spirit of ‘philoxenia,’ or, Greek hospitality, where familial warmth is palpable, and where guests gather as easily for a casual drink as they do for the fine dining experience the restaurant provides.
At Estiatorio Ornos, Mina has collaborated with chefs Girair “Jerry” Goumroian and Nikolaos Georgousis, the duo behind Las Vegas’ Meráki. The menu is based on cuisine on which the two, and Mina, grew up - namely seafood. In deference to the heavily pescatarian menu, Mina has introduced San Francisco’s first ‘fish sommelier,’ a concept originated on Oahu at Mina’s Fish House located at the Four Seasons Ko Olina. Think traditional wine sommelier, and substitute wine for fish. The days’ Mediterranean sea-arrivals are presented tableside via fish cart while the fish sommelier describes each, as well the varied preparation options, some of which Executive Chef Daniela Vergara creates on the fly as inspiration hits, such as a grilled presentation of one of the days’ rarer ‘varietals’ rather than the more French style bouillabaisse she had initially planned.
Beyond the fish selections, the expansive a la carte menu features traditional Greek offerings such as a feta-draped Greek salad, a selection of creamy Mediterranean spreads (i.e. hummus, tzatziki, melitzanosalata), tender grilled lamb chops, and Greek restaurant staple grilled octopus. Vergara’s preparation finds the charred delicacy plated over white beans with Santorini capers, red onion and a drizzle of olive oil. A $125/pp tasting menu offers the restaurant’s varied ‘bests’ within a menu of four courses. It’s a wonderful introduction to the specialties of the house, such as grilled Mediterranean Sea Bass and Petrale Sole ‘Glossa.’ And a dedicated children’s menu keeps the little ones happy with chicken fingers, linguine pasta with butter or tomato, and cheese ‘pitza’ with pita bread, mozzarella, and oregano.
Seasonal cocktails created by lead bartender Anthony Attanasio evoke an easy, breezy seaside vibe, such as the Oceanus with Brugal white rum, cucumber, mastic tears, and lime, and the Eros with Grey Goose vodka, blueberry, tarragon, lemon, and Kretaraki Meli honey liqueur. Wines by the glass feature Greek varietals, such as Retsina, Greece’s iconic – and most misunderstood – wine. Like Italian Lambrusco, Retsina’s reputation for low quality is being challenged by today’s winemakers who are creating the varietal in a more balanced and elegant style. Ask for a taste, and if you then prefer something a bit more relatable, you’ll surely find something to your liking on the expansive wine list compiled by MINA Group’s Corporate Wine Director Jeremy Shanker.
For dessert, don’t miss the Baklava Sundae for two – a tableside preparation of crispy, chopped baklava topped with fresh Greek frozen yogurt, crushed pistachio, preserved citrus, Amarena cherries, and a drizzle of 23K gold honey. It alone is worth a visit.
No matter the iteration at 252 California, guests can count on this Michael Mina dining destination to be gracious, elegant, and delicious – always abetted by an engaging soundtrack that fits the restaurant’s personality. With its house playlist of Mykonos-inspired pop and jazz tunes, Estiatorio Ornos is no exception.
Estiatorio Ornos, a Michael Mina Restaurant: 252 California St., San Francisco
