Have you ever dreamed of time traveling to the early 20th century, and as if playing a character in a historical drama, experiencing an aristocratic lifestyle enjoyed by few beyond members at the pinnacle of Britain’s social hierarchy?
In straightforward truth: I have. And in recent reality: I did.
Cue Wales (www.visitwales.com).
In homage to native son and his renowned radio drama, Under Milk Wood, I’ll quote Dylan Thomas and “begin at the beginning.” After driving along country roads past emerald fields of grazing sheep, in and quickly out of numerous villages and beneath natural tunnels of trees, a long gravel drive led to Palé Hall. Greeted by a team of red-and-green-tartan-vested stewards flanking its entrance (Downton Abbey, anyone?), I and my fellow travelers were quickly whisked into the Victorian-style country home. So significant has been the history of today’s AA Five Red Star, Relais & Chateaux-affiliated lodging since its 1871 beginnings, it was the one-time host of Queen Victoria and Winston Churchill (available for stays, the chambers are called the Queen’s Suite and the Churchill Suite).
Highlights ranged from a back-in-the-day “press for champagne” button next to the settee couch in the ladies plush restroom and a curated meal by Chef Edward Marsh in the Chef’s Table Room of the MICHELIN Green Star and AA Three Rosette rated restaurant to steward Paul Whittle’s ever helpful info on “everything” – from locating my difficult-to-find suite, the Carmarthen Room (deemed Whittle’s favorite), to his suggestion to visit the estate’s newborn Valais Blacknose lambs. Of the hospitable environs, Gareth Jones, concierge and duty manager stated: “When our guests arrive, they’re not walking into a hotel, they’re walking into a home.”
Field trip! Standing high on a hilltop, as if at attention, was Powis Castle – a vast, red, intimidating edifice. Once a fortress, then home to a long line of powerful Welsh families, today’s museum sat on 15,000 acres, including its must-stroll-upon terraced landscape.
An early morning walk within the 200-acre wooded parkland and manicured garden grounds of 600-year-old Bodysgallen Hall revealed a setting so serene I heard the occasional vehicle on approach long before it was visible. The part-medieval, part-Jacobean influenced manor home – prominent in Welsh history as the off-and-on-again residence of the Mostyn family – showcased its history, whether in the oak paneled drawing room focused around a stone and inlaid-tile fireplace topped with 17th century coats of arms, portraits adorning assorted walls (including that of then-Prince Charles displayed at reception) or intricately crafted stone mullioned windows. Pre-dinner drinks in the library were enhanced by the personal attention of bartender Simon and his recommendation of a classic Pimm’s No.1. But it was my view from the window-facing vanity of the main house’s Room 2, which overlooked the lawn’s signature stone pine tree, that most lulled me into a lavish mindset.
Field trip! The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Conwy Castle has been the centerpiece of the medieval, walled town of Conwy for 700 years. Small, quaint, walkable, the town was also home to Britain’s smallest house at the size 6’ x 8’.
Though designed entirely by one architect, Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, the North Wales coastal town of Portmeirion seemed best defined by the saying, “the camel is a horse, designed by a committee.” Imaginative in colors, inventive in details and Italianate in ambiance, the whimsical destination – described the “oddest village ever conceived” – transported me to a fairytale, though too briefly.
Offering two fine-dining restaurants, assorted cafes and various shops, its accommodations included the Castle Deudraeth Hotel which overlooked the village, Portmeirion Hotel located on the water’s edge and a selection of cottages dotting the terrain leading from the castle bluff down a steep landscape to the shore. My home for the night was one of the cottages, Upper Pilot. All special, all different, all comfortable, my suite served up a bird’s-eye view of the kaleidoscopic grounds, Dwyryd Estuary and the secluded sandy cove. Best part: The village closed to the public at day’s end, leaving Portmeirion exclusive to its overnight guests – creating an over-the-years magnet for such celebrities as George Bernard Shaw, Edward the Prince of Wales, Liam Neeson and George Harrison (site of his 50th birthday celebration).
Field trip! Take a ride on the Ffestiniog & Highland Railway, the world’s oldest narrow-gauge railroad (est. 1832). Originally built to transport slate from quarries to the harbor, current day carriages have been rebuilt to the highest standards with vintage-style seating, polished brass fittings, inlaid wood paneling and now large windows for the best viewing.
Inspired by native daughter and fashion designer, Laura Ashley, who became famous in the 1960s, 70s and 80s for her traditional Victorian-style-print fashion and home decor, was Llangoed Hall. With a storied history dating back to 560 A.D., the hall was once lost in a card game, redesigned by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis as a country house in 1912 (preceding Portmeirion) and purchased in 1987 by Sir Bernard Ashley, husband of the world-renowned fabric designer to restore to its original glory.
Though no longer the manor home’s proprietor, Llangoed Hall remains a testament to the Ashleys’ highly cultivated esthetics. Among past guests was King Charles, its art collection included a Whistler original and the Queen Mum’s former Rolls-Royce has transported guests. Steeped in countryside solitude and blue-blooded sensibilities, it was comprised of 23 guest rooms and 17 acres of gardens. And after waking to the sound of nothing, a stay in this highborn hideaway provided me a step back into fashionable time.
Field trip! Famous for one thing – books – Hay-on-Wye, a town of 2,000 whose population swells to 100,000 during its annual 10-day literary festival (late May/early June), was a souvenir stop for all types of tomes (classics, rare editions, second hand and more).
Located in the heart of Pembrokeshire’s rolling countryside was The Grove Hotel. Comprised of a 15th century country mansion and a collection of cottages, the estate’s assorted accolades were readily apparent – recipient of the AA Five Red Star and a Small Luxury Hotels of the World associate, along with recognition of Chef Douglas Balish’s Fernery restaurant with Four AA Rosette and MICHELIN Green Star awards.
Renowned for its regal blend of modern luxe and country charm, décor included new and antique handmade furniture accented by local craftsmanship – from artwork and pottery to love spoons and vintage lace. Detached from the main house, my accommodation, the Verbena Cottage Loft Suite, served up a slice of sigh-inducing isolation. There, I basked in a custom-bath-salt soak in the clawed tub next to a slightly open tilted window during a gentle rainfall in the evening and woke to bird calls beneath a crisp, white, freshly laundered duvet the following morning. Exploration of the 26-acre grounds revealed ancient oaks, fields of wildflowers and a suspended wooden-bench tree swing.
Field trip! Often named “People’s Favorite Place” in Wales, the medieval seaside resort town of Tenby presented a variety of opportunities – purchase takeaway fish and chips to enjoy from a beach bench, explore the historic town (a favorite of authors Beatrix Potter and Roald Dahl) or simply walk its expansive beach.
At this fantasy’s end, I found comfort, not in its conclusion but in the promise of my return found in the Welsh saying, eang yw’r byd i bawb. Translation: “the world is wide to everyone.”
