‘Jeru’ derives from the Hebrew meaning ‘God will uplift’, and it is an apt name for this luxurious Middle Eastern restaurant in Mayfair which oozes an aura of divine transcendency. Entering the restaurant is like setting foot in a beautiful hammam or palace, lending a real sense of exotic opulence to the occasion as diners wander through a traditional Middle Eastern arch surrounded by the dipping fronds of plants and a bespoke herb chandelier. The main restaurant is softly lit, and low-ceilinged, lending a warm, cosy ambience, which does not veer into claustrophobia thanks to the length and clever creation of recessed space. An open kitchen provides a backdrop of meticulousness, dynamism, and industrious entertainment on one side, while luxurious banquette seating flanks the other.
Jeru is the first UK outpost of award-winning Australian chef Roy Ner (of ARIA, Nour, and ZaZaTa renown), with roots stemming from North Africa and Israel. The whole space is a homage not only to his cuisine, but to his culture and heritage. Passion and creativity are woven through the menu like fine golden threads in a Byzantine silk shawl. It’s always evident when a chef is intrigued by a cuisine and works with the ingredients and techniques rather than trying to control, shackle, or manhandle the dishes, and this is one of the predominant sensations of eating at Jeru.
Jeru has a special, limited edition Easter menu – the perfect way to welcome in spring and celebrate the season – available from 3-16 April, and priced at £79 per person, which represents fantastic value considering the veritable banquet it constitutes. To start, there is a delicious assortment of mezze plates: warm potato fermented wood-fired bread, served with aromatic salted macadamia honey and a pat of chickpea miso butter. It whets the appetite and lights up the tastebuds like the first rays of morning sunlight on the dome of The Hagia Sophia. Other highlights of the mezze selection are the warm charcoal olives that follow are perfectly seasoned with smoked paprika and oregano. The black chickpea hummus is also a revelation – the herb tatbila melts in the mouth in a medley of exotic flavours, while the meaty mushrooms complement the unctuousness of the hummus perfectly. The tuna ceviche is perfectly balanced with a piquant orange and tamarind sauce. The final starter – the charcoal leek, which is laced with roasted hazelnuts, feta and caper vinaigrette is an absolute must-try. After this incredible assortment of appetisers, we are fairly full, but excited about the main event: the signature milk fed lamb roast, which is accompanied with some deliciously moreish roasted hasselback Jerusalem artichokes topped with caramelised onion tahini and glistening white anchovies.
The wine menu is sublime, and the charming Italian sommelier, Valentino, has been trained in the art of pairing to such a degree that each course is elevated by the appropriate accompaniment of wines that are so diverse they include the first producers in Phoenicia and Georgia through to modern-day New World varieties.
To finish, we have the ultimate delight for anyone with a sweet tooth: the Jeru Easter Egg. This is a confection that tastes as good as it looks: a caramel chocolate dome with cherry and sumac sorbet, with a generous sweep of salip sauce. Desserts can be enjoyed in the seductive, glamorous cavern of the sophisticated downstairs bar, Layla. This is also the space where DJs visit to spin the night in a more hedonistic direction in the sunken lounge if that’s your jam.
A meal at Jeru feels like embarking on an opulent journey – one that yields ample rewards not only for the taste buds, but all the senses. There is history, vibrancy that enrich the experience to such an extent that it totally transcends the simple process of going out for a meal and turns it into a multisensorial sensation. The service throughout from our waiter, Martin, and the maitre d’, Philip, is utterly flawless, and enhances the overall experience of the evening. I cannot recommend Jeru highly enough.
Jeru
11 Berkeley Street, Mayfair, London W1J 8DS
Phone 0203 988 0054
Website jeru.co.uk
Easter Menu Priced at £79pp, available from 3-16 April
