The Chelsea Pig has been a popular establishment since the late nineteenth century - albeit under different auspices. The last time I visited, in 2009 (on my first date with my now husband), it was The Pig’s Ear. Prince William and Kate Middleton were regulars (the flat on Old Church Street that Kate shared with her sister, Pippa, was a couple of doors down). The Chelsea Pig underwent a full-scale revamp in 2021, following a full facelift courtesy of illustrious furniture designer Timothy Oulton, making his first proper foray into the hospitality arena. My friend S and I visited one balmy June evening and were greeted warmly by Ross, the genial maitre d’, and were shown to a cosy corner table.
It’s an intimate space - only a dozen or so tables - most of which are arranged around the periphery of the main pub room, which features some stunning crystal chandeliers, The L-shaped stone bar lies at the centre. Oulton’s redesign fits in perfectly: it is simultaneously quirky and thought-provoking. Perhaps the most striking feature, aside from the quite remarkably large chandeliers, is the vast fish tank, which contains an antique Russian diving suit and helmet, along with a wide array of tropical fish (there had been plans for piranhas, our charming waitress, Chloe, confides, but importing them had involved too much legal palaver). Another noteworthy aspect of the decor is the four large flags (the respective royal banners of the home nations plus the Kingdom of Ireland) which serve as massive draught-excluding curtains around the Pig’s doors.
The design is very fitting for Chelsea, especially the part we are in - the heart of old Chelsea, which has a slightly eccentric and old money air about it. It is, in essence, a pub, but a very fancy pub (I hesitate to use the epithet gastro, because it’s so common-hackneyed). It’s the kind of place that is frequented by locals; certainly, the groups of smart, well-dressed diners on the night we visited were anything to go by. There is a private dining room upstairs - the Trophy Room, which is occupied by a group of bankers on the night we visit.
Ross and Chloe are friendly and attentive, and Ross helpfully walks us through the menu, making recommendations as he does so. It’s a relatively concise list of offerings, but nevertheless comprehensive enough to offer sufficient choice, without throwing either me or S into a paroxysm of indecision, as so often happens with longer menus.
We alight on our starters based on Ross’ recommendations: cured halibut for me and beef featherblade raviolo for S. My fish was bathed in an exotically aromatic concoction of tigers milk and jasmine tea jelly, and was a delightfully nuanced dish. The beef was tempered with some crunchy charred sweetcorn and creamy sweetcorn velouté, adding textural interest, which S pronounced a huge success. For the main event, I opted for the whole roasted courgette. I had been slightly apprehensive about this choice and wondered whether it would be sufficiently satiating, but I needn’t have worried. It arrived, gorgeously presented, with a generous smattering of manouri cheese, tabouleh and basil sauce. It was delicious and satisfying in equal measure. S also heartily enjoyed her lamb breast, which was served perfectly pink, and was accompanied by a medley of spring vegetables and minted salsa verde and mash. We also shared a side of broccoli with port and anchovy sauce; the umami flavours added a new dimension to the brassica that I’d not experienced before; a total revelation.
By this point we were both almost excessively full, but convinced ourselves to share a peppermint crème brûlée because it sounded so delicious. It did not disappoint. Served with the creamiest Valrhona chocolate ice cream and adorned with chocolate crumb, it was the perfect climax to a truly delicious evening.
For a quintessentially ‘Chelsea’ pub experience, The Chelsea Pig cannot be beaten. It is delightfully eccentric, stylish, and wonderfully irreverent, and most importantly of all, the nosh and service are top notch.
The Chelsea Pig
Phone: 020 302 60466
Email: reservations@thechelseapig.co.uk
35 Old Church Street, London SW3 5BS
