I have to admit that I was a bit afraid of jumping into a freezing cold lake, especially at night, all but paralyzed by the thought of what might be lurking beneath the surface. My mind races, half-jokingly imagining the Loch Ness Monster’s distant cousin lurking somewhere in the depths. But still, off we go into the dark, frigid waters, the chill biting at our skin. Thankfully, our wetsuits serve as armor against the cold, a reassuring shield as we step deeper into the unknown.
Colin, our guide and a seasoned open-water swimmer, reassures us calmly: we’re safe. With that, we venture into the deep blue, facing fear head-on. The rush of exhilaration that follows is unlike anything else—an accomplishment that feels primal and profound. You become acutely present, alive in a way that only immersion in nature can offer.
This night swim is just one moment of adventure at Another Place, a retreat tucked into the quiet wilds of England’s Lake District—an experience that lingers long after you leave the water.
The Lake District offers a place for city dwellers to escape to landscapes of rolling fells, dry stone walls, winding lanes, and where sheep outnumber people. The air is fresh and crisp, the pubs refreshingly unpolished, and the smiles a touch more sincere. The lakes themselves cast a calming spell, their still waters and quiet beauty impose a slower pace—a chance to reconnect with a more grounded self.
Among them is Ullswater, a long, sinuous stretch of cold blue water flanked by mountains and sheep-dotted farmland. And right on its shore is Another Place The Lake , a Georgian estate turned design-forward retreat that redefines what a country hotel can be. This isn’t another tartan-heavy manor stuck in the past. It’s open-hearted and modern, with unfussy food, rooms that breathe, and lake-centred activities. It is a place tailor made for a kind of personal restoration.
The Lake District
The Lake District, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the northwest of England, is known for its dramatic landscapes—rugged fells, deep glacial lakes, and quaint villages that have inspired writers and artists for centuries. It’s a place where the air feels cleaner, the light sharper, and the pace distinctly slower.
Set along the lesser-known shores of Ullswater, England’s second-largest lake, Another Place trades postcard clichés for something more textured. Ullswater is long and narrow, and impossibly photogenic, cradled by steep-sided fells and ribboned with walking trails. Ullswater itself is a world apart from the busier Windermere to the south. There are no fleets of motorboats churning its waters or throngs of tourists departing from buses and then jostling for lakeside Instagram shots. In fact, a speed limit keeps things calm, preserving the lake’s reflective stillness and meditative mood, often shrouded in early-morning mist.
An Active Holiday
Days here can be as slow or as vigorous as you like, but the landscape practically begs you to move. Out on the lake, the water is alive with possibility. Another Place has its own private launch, making it easy to slip straight into the action. Paddleboarding, kayaking, canoeing, and sailing all come without the roar of jet skis or the churn of engine wakes. It’s a quieter, more intentional way to experience Ullswater—a lake with still waters framed by the rising green flanks of the fells and the bristling line of pine forests.
Wild swimming at Another Place is not just an activity—it’s a full-bodied reckoning with nature. By day, Ullswater’s cold clarity jolts the senses awake, but it’s the night swims that leave a deeper imprint. Clad in wetsuits and guided by head torches that flicker like distant stars, guests slip into the inky black water under the hush of darkness. There’s a moment of hesitation—then immersion. The lake, suddenly vast and infinite, becomes something elemental. Breathing steadies, the world disappears, and what's left is the rhythmic pull of water and a surreal sense of peace. The experience is primal, cleansing, unforgettable. It's not about distance or speed, but surrender—an immersion that leaves you quieter, braver, and somehow more alive.
On land, the call of the hills is just as compelling. Paths cut through ancient woodlands, snake up craggy slopes, and meander through fields where the cows barely lift their heads as you pass, their heavy-lidded eyes tracking your progress for a moment before turning back to their endless grazing. Some trails hug the water’s edge, the lake always in sight, its surface shifting with the play of light and wind. Others climb sharply into the heights, where the air thins and the views stretch into the distance. It’s walking as therapy, the kind that clears the mind as thoroughly as it exhausts the body.
A Stay at Another Place
Another Place is more than a hotel—it’s a collection of experiences tethered to the land and water it inhabits. The main house is where the soul of Another Place lives. The original building, a Georgian home with arched windows, high ceilings, period mouldings—have been respected, but the interiors feel anything but dusty. It has the easy charm of a country manor, with velvet armchairs, log fires, and a library designed for long afternoons. But the styling is clean and current—no chintz, no fuss. Instead: natural fabrics, curated art, and a palette of deep blues, mustard yellows, and modern art bring a playful energy. The new wing, meanwhile, brings a more Scandinavian sensibility—lighter woods, more glass, and unobstructed views across the lake.
Accommodations at Another Place span the spectrum from classic country house elegance to contemporary lakeside cool, each room a small reflection of the estate’s layered character. In the main house, the rooms exude a sense of history. Tall, sash windows frame views of the lake and surrounding gardens, their panes rippled slightly with age, catching the light in that soft, diffused way that only old glass can. The ceilings soar, some arched and vaulted in the grander suites, lending the rooms a sense of scale that hints at the building’s Victorian past. Furnishings strike a careful balance—antique armoires, velvet armchairs, and polished wood desks are paired with crisp, modern linens and curated contemporary artwork. There’s a touch of whimsy, too, in the form of hand-drawn prints and local landscapes that line the walls, a nod to the region’s long tradition of inspiring artists and writers.
Inside the Joules Suite
One of the most characterful rooms in the main house is the Joules Suite. Beneath its arched, vaulted ceiling, the room balances grandeur and cheeky charm. Painted in moody teal, it’s brought to life by vivid citron armchairs, a plump ottoman, and a bed dressed in checked linens. There’s a warmth to the space that makes you want to kick off your shoes and stay in. The artwork is eclectic but curated, and vintage wooden furniture is offset by playful modern lighting. Somehow, it all works—elegance without stiffness, colour without chaos. It's the kind of room that makes you feel instantly at home, but better.
The newer wing, by contrast, leans into a more minimalist, Scandinavian aesthetic. It’s all about clean lines, wide glass panes, and a palette of soft, neutral tones. The rooms feel fresh and bright, with an emphasis on bringing the outside in. Pale woods and textured fabrics create a sense of calm, while the floor-to-ceiling windows pull your gaze outward, inviting the ever-changing light of the lake and the slow drift of clouds into the space. Here, the art is more abstract, less about capturing a scene than evoking a mood—perhaps the soft, misted mornings or the cool, slate-blue of the lake at dusk.
And then there are the shepherd’s huts. These compact, self-contained retreats are the antithesis of the polished suites in the main house. Built for those who want a little more seclusion, they come with wood-burning stoves, cozy wool throws, and outdoor copper bathtubs where you can soak under the stars, the steam rising into the cool night air.
Inside, every detail feels considered but unpretentious—reclaimed wood, soft sheepskin rugs, and windows that open to the sound of rustling leaves and the distant, lapping water of Ullswater.
Farm to Table Dining
Dining at Another Place reflects the Lake District’s fertile terrain the bounty of ingredients from the region. The menu is created from the surrounds—its forests, pastures, and cold, clear waters. This is a place where the distance between farm and fork is reassuringly short, where ingredients come from fields you might pass on a morning walk or vendors you might see at the Saturday market in a nearby village. There’s an authenticity to it all, a sense that every dish evolves from the landscape outside the window.
At Rampsbeck Restaurant, the mood is refined but unfussy. The menu changes regularly based on what is fresh and in season including produce from the retreat’s vegetable patch. You might start with trout caught in the icy waters of Ullswater paired with foraged herbs and a scattering of local greens. Or perhaps a rack of Herdwick lamb , chorizo crusted cod loin with broad beans if not the king oyster mushroom and truffled goat’s curd. That homegrown perspective in the ingrediencies carries through to the plating—thoughtful without being pretentious, every element placed with care but never overdoing it.
For something more casual, The Living Space is a come-and-go bistro where you can linger over a glass of wine or grab a quick bite after a long walk. It’s the kind of place for hearty sandwiches to small plates that are perfect for sharing. The vibe is easy, the views always distracting, with large windows that frame the ever-changing moods of the lake and the distant line of the hills.
Then there’s The Glasshouse, where the centerpiece is a crackling wood-fired oven that turns out thin-crust pizzas and blistered flatbreads. It’s a family-friendly space, more relaxed but no less considered. Toppings might include local sausage, wild garlic plucked from a nearby hedgerow, or tangy goat cheese from a farm just a few miles down the road. It’s the kind of place where the air smells like smoke and the tables fill quickly, where pizzas arrive crisp and bubbling, the crusts charred just enough to make you reach for that second slice.
Throughout, the menus shift with the seasons, adapting to what the farmers can pull from their fields or what the foragers can find in the woods. It’s food with a sense of place, the kind that feels deeply connected to the landscape that surrounds it.
More to do...or not: The Swim Club and Spa Escape
There’s so much to do in and around the retreat. While many come for the lake, the hotel’s indoor pool deserves attention. Set beneath skylights and facing the water, the Swim Club is both spa and sanctuary. There’s a hot tub, sauna, and treatment rooms that offer everything from deep tissue massages to slow, meditative facials. It’s less about vanity here, and more about softening. You come to the Swim Club to ease out what life knots up.
A Return to Centre
Another Place The Lake doesn’t rely on dramatics. Its power is in its understatement, in the way it lets the landscape speak first. You come here because you need a breather. And slowly—through a quiet walk, a cold swim, a hot fire—you get one. By the end, you realise something subtle has shifted. Your shoulders aren’t as tight. Your thoughts move more slowly. You feel recalibrated, as though the setting has tugged you gently back to centre.
And perhaps that’s the greatest luxury of all: not just escape, but return. Not to the life you left behind, but to the part of you that often gets drowned out. Another Place is just that—another way of being, another way of seeing. And sometimes, that’s exactly what you need.
