In a utopic travel trance, I was wrapped in cozy clothes and sitting atop a honed tree stump at the most welcoming of dinner-on-the-beach settings. Positioned at a weathered wooden table with a yellow blossom-filled pitcher at its center, I sipped a glass of naturally chilled Arctic ice water and awaited an open-fire-cooked meal of scallops and crab claws morning fresh from the surrounding sea.
My location: Twillingate. Closer to the country of Greenland than the Connecticut city of Greenwich, remoteness added to the charm. As a northern outpost of Canada’s easternmost province – Newfoundland and Labrador – the region is noted for its sense of tradition, tight connections and travelers who come as guests and leave as friends, travelers like me.
Our meal, a cherished custom, was a delicious reflection of what the area is all about. Called a “boil-up” and arranged through locally owned Wild Island Kitchen, the evening’s culinary guide, Austin Silva, motioned to the steps-away body of water. “This is our whale trail, so keep a lookout.” I learned that the month of June is when 22 species of whales come to feed off Newfoundland’s coast and remain through August.
Truth be told, getting to Twillingate was not without challenge or commitment. And though the tiny town of more than 2,000 is 2.5 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time (as is the entire province); in reality, it is a walk back in time. About 90 minutes from my Newfoundland base of Gander, the journey was in the rain – while simultaneously following directions, watching for moose, dodging potholes and silently willing the car to hopscotch. But though less than relaxing, I confess to at least one Newfoundland-humor-induced smile – a black and yellow diamond-shaped hazard sign along the way reading: “Rough Road Ahead For . . . Ever.”
Upon arrival it was apparent I’d reached the land of inclement weather. Brightened by boldly-painted homes overlooking its harbor – I think to lighten the spirit induced by seasonal extremes – it was perfectly picturesque.
That said, the goal of my trip went beyond a colorful landscape and distinctive dining.
Positioned along Iceberg Alley, huge chunks of frozen water annually break from 12,000-year-old glaciers of the Canadian Arctic and Greenland. Knowing that two to three years later the bergs float toward this coast in spring and early summer, my trip was timed to spotting them.
Cue Iceberg Quest Ocean Tours. As we pulled from the dock aboard the 84-passenger Cetacean Quest, albeit a bit off schedule, Captain Barry simply stated: “Don’t worry about time. That’s why we’re one-half hour off here; so, we’re always one-half hour early or one-half hour late.” Preceded by an unexpected, but complimentary lunch of mussels or grilled cheese while waiting, however, no passenger left ‘hangry,’ as we headed into Twillingate Harbour – past Harts Cove and Long Point Lighthouse toward Burnt Island. With numerous icebergs, the game soon became what image each best captured – a sleek yacht, Giza pyramid and garden snail were top contenders.
Here in the land of such names as Tickle Point Road and Pippy’s Lane, it was no surprise that Twillingate was casual – no dress code and no pretension. And for a real taste of this typically off-the-map setting, attendance at the Twillingate/New World Island Dinner Theatre seemed mandatory. Reservations were necessary for this seasonal (May – September), six-night-a-week show that annually entertains 10,000-plus guests and promises “an authentic taste and sound of this outport.” Performers appearing year after year in this production – best described a combo of Loretta Lynn, Newfoundland folk music and the Broadway musical, Riverdance – are talented. Best part: If in season, lobster is an entrée choice.
Back on the road, the quest was for more icebergs, but with fewer passengers and in another setting. Less than three hours away by car, I arrived at Hare Bay Adventures, located in its namesake town. In a small boat, a total of four of us set out. Including Duane and Alex, representatives of the tour company – both homegrown and intimately familiar with the setting and its surrounding sea - we began our half-day expedition in search of icebergs and puffins. Best described as whirly birds, puffins are reminiscent of mechanical wind-up toys (it's claimed they flap their wings 400 times a minute) - making in-focus photos the ultimate challenge. In the end, two icebergs were added to the tally (factoid: less than 11 percent of these ice formations are visible above the water). And thanks to our provincial guides, more regional humor was on display. Endearingly underscoring most residents' allegiance to their homeland, Alex asked and answered, 'How to spot a Newfoundlander in heaven? They want to come back.'
A bit about my history with Newfoundland - specifically Gander. Inspired by the hit musical, Come From Away - detailing how this little-known town opened its arms, hearts and homes to 38 jumbo jet loads of passengers forced to land on September 11, 2001 - this was my second visit. And though familiar with the province's inimitable spirit and soul, this latter experience was no less engaging.
My first foray was to get to know the real-life residents on which the play is based - Oz Fudge (colorful policeman), Beulah Cooper (in the play the character Beulah Davis - a composite of two local ladies) and Derm Flynn (mayor of Appleton) - a mission I accomplished. For like-minded visitors, such happenings are real possibilities for anyone who might stop at the Gander Bread Box for a touton (local fried bread dough specialty) or Walmart for everything else. And for a guaranteed opportunity, there's the 'Meet the Flynns' experience in the home of Derm and Dianne Flynn that can be booked directly.
Typical of this part of the world, not only was it possible to reconnect with friends on this visit but to meet new ones, like those at the Norris Arm Heritage Museum - including Linda White, Calvin Downer and more. As members of the outlying community of Norris Arm, which was also significant in the September 2001 establishment of Newfoundland's now-international reputation for hospitality, museum curator Anne MacPhee Breen reminisced: 'I'll never forget a woman coming up to me and asking: 'Can you tell me where I am?'' upon disembarking her U.S. bound plane in a strange land under stranger circumstances. And don't miss the exhibition's 30-minute video, 'Good Hearted Town,' about the role the region played more than two decades ago (tip: bring tissues).
'At the edge of the Western World, there's a place where the day dawns first,' reads a poster at the entrance of the bright-yellow museum. Still a community where doors are left unlocked at night, keys remain in cars, moose soup is a staple and the expression 'M'love' is a greeting for friends and strangers alike, this is the land of down-to-earth sincerity.
Come From Away - 'This is a universal story. It's about a small town helping the world.' Debuting the play for the first tdime in Gander in 2023, it returns in 2024 from July 7 to September 1.
In the end, a local license plate frame best describes my sentiment upon return, for I felt as if I had 'Come Home.'
