The Los Angeles County Museums of Art (LACMA) presents 'Dining with the Sultan: The Fine Art of Feasting." It's the first exhibition to explore Islamic art in the context associated with culinary traditions. The exhibition is curated by Linda Komaroff, Curator and Department Head, Art of the Middle East, at LAMCA.
"For many, if not most of us, our earliest encounter with another culture is not its art, literature, or history but rather its cuisine," said Komaroff. "Through the prism of our own modern-day fascination with gastronomy, the history of Islamic food culture offers us a powerful conduit for better appreciating and understanding fine art."
The exhibition presents three special installations that include the Damascus Room (1776-67 / AH 1180). This lavishly decorated 'qa'a' reception room from a late-Ottoman courtyard home has beautifully painted and carved wood walls. The opulent materials demonstrate the family's wealth and social status. The homes of the well-to-do in Ottoman-era Damascus had plain exteriors, yet inside these homes were elaborately decorated reception rooms.
The intricately inlaid stone wall fountain is eye-catching, as is the ornate arch formed of colorful plaster voussoirs.
Even though many historic homes were demolished, occasionally their sumptuous interiors were saved. In 2014, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art acquired this complete interior and it is one of the best examples of its kind.
Another special exhibit is the 'sufra', a Persian word for the fabric covering the dining surface. Usually, it's placed on the ground in large parts of the traditional Islamic world.
Visitors can sit on floor cushions at a traditional sufra and feast their eyes on a rotation of dishes based on historical recipes updated and prepared by Iranian American chef, restaurateur and author Najmieh Batmanglij. There are six different dishes from different times and places. These recipes were drawn from historical cookbooks, and have been updated for the contemporary gourmand.
The four bowls at the center of the sufra change with each course. Menu items include Eggplant dressed in sauce, Broth of chickpea, Rice and lamb with barberries, Carrot pudding with dried fruit, Chicken-filled pastry and Sweet omelet.
The works of art displayed nearby demonstrate the great variety of diversity of tableware, utensils, and dining accessories, such as napkins and hand-washing vessels, associated with a fine feast.
Dining with the Sultan also showcases a rich array of tableware, preparatory vessels, textiles, instruments, manuscripts, paintings, and illustrations.
There are 9 thematic sections that each examine an aspect or influence in Islamic food culture across time and space. Themes include Continuity and Change: Royal Cuisine and Etiquette from the Late Antique to Early Islamic Courts; Eating for Health; Music and Entertainment and Dressing for Dinner.
One of the most creative and fascinating installations is a piece commissioned by LACMA to create a connection between traditional and modern-day dining practices. Artist Sadik Kwaish Alfraji creates a multimedia installation consisting of drawings, photographs and an animation film. This six-minute film is a re-creation of childhood memories, perceptions and comforts. Alfraji visualizes and makes tangible recollections of his mother's handmade bread, down to its taste, smell and touch. He captures universal familial experiences, such as the way shared food brings individuals together, even though the emotional impact is often bittersweet.
Visitors can scan the QR code to discover the recipe of traditional Iraqi bread made by the artist's mother, Umm Sadik.
'Dining with the Sultan is a major exhibition of Islamic art that breaks new ground in its emphasis on a practice shared by all cultures - feasting,' said Michael Govan, LACMA CEO and Wallis Annenberg Director. 'This exhibition also marks the first time that the Damascus Room will be accessible to U.S. audiences and we are excited to share this work from the museum's permanent collection.'
Dining with the Sultan: The Fine Art of Feasting is open to the public starting on December 17, 2023 to August 4, 2024 in the Resnick Pavilion.
