“Williamsburg reminds us of Travestere,” reads Antica Pesa’s website, referring to the locale where the almost century-old Roman osteria recently opened its first outpost in Brooklyn. “For starters Travestere, similar to Williamsburg, is located across a river.” It may seem like a shallow similarity, but geography has contributed much to the slightly rebellious character of both neighborhoods—free-spirited, artistic, and ever evolving. So it was in Williamsburg, and not Manhattan, that brothers Francesco and Simone Panella felt most at home to continue the tradition of four generations of their family restaurant.