PRICE RANGE$$$$ ATTIRE Jackets & ties required HOURS Mon-Thurs 5:45 pm-11pm Fri-Sat 5:30pm-11pm CUISINE French
Daniel Boulud, born in Lyon, is very comfortable in the garb of Lord of the manor at this Venetian palace. Daniel is as majestic as modest in this aristocratic role, ruling this (still) grand and elegant space. The sprawling (now bright) dining room reopened to a lavish and modish remodel by Adam Tihany. The Spanish artwork of Manolo Valdés trim the walls, subtle colors in shimmery grays and green satiate as do the urbane flower arrangements. The staff layers on pinpoint service, discreet but always there, anticipating every need. Dinner is preceded by three amuse-bouches. The cuisine of Daniel and executive chef Jean-François Bruel beguiles as a blend of informed hominess and truffle-steeped excess. There's no getting around Daniel's signature black sea bass in potato shell with Syrah sauce. Carnivores can't resist the beefy double feature: short ribs braised in red wine paired with young carrot fricassée and a seared rib-eye teamed with allumette potatoes. Sommelier Philippe Marchal will help you choose from the wine list which boasts more than 1,000 selections. After dessert, perhaps a bittersweet chocolate praline crémeux with dark chocolate ice cream, the intricate petits fours are always delightful, but they are overshadowed by the exceptional buttery madeleines that are brought to the table warm from the oven. Forget Proust, the memory of these cookies is positively Pavlovian.
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